连身袖袖裆结构的优化参数研究

随着服装多元化的发展变革,连身袖的设计逐步由满足服装简单的美观性和宽松性向复杂综合的舒适性和运动功能性发展,其典型特征就是在腋下加入袖裆结构,使其在具有美观性的同时也具有舒适性与运动功能性。对于有袖裆的连身袖结构而言,袖裆是决定连身袖服装隐性袖窿大小的关键,也是关系到袖与身之间的协调、袖身共同承担的服装平服度、人体活动和穿着舒适等的重要因素,同时也对服装的款式、风格变化有着重要的影响。本文将从动态和静态两个角度来研究中性连身袖袖裆宽的变化对服装的外观造型和舒适性的影响,寻求能够同时满足服装静态美感和动态活动量的裆宽最佳取值范围。

Optimized Parameters Study of Kimono Sleeve Gusset-insert Structure

Along with the development and reform of costume diversification, the design of the kimono sleeve is gradually developing from meeting the apparel simple aesthetics and relaxation to complex comfortableness and sports functionality, and its typical characteristics is joining sleeve gusset-insert structure under the armpit, so as to achieve the aesthetics as well as comfortableness and sports functionality. For the kimono sleeve with gusset-insert, this structure is the key to recessive sleeve size, is not only closely related to the coordination between sleeve and body, smoothing degree made by sleeve and body, human body activities and wearing comfortableness, but also to the clothing design and style change. This paper studies the effects of width range of neutral kimono sleeve on the appearances and comfortableness of clothing from the dynamic and static perspectives, to find out the optimized width range of satisfying the static aesthetics and dynamic activity of clothing.