缀做衫的结构及其机能性研究

缀做衫作为福建惠安女的一种特定服饰,它由清末时期的接袖衫传承和发展而来,形成衣身短小,上紧下松的款式风格和多分割、多拼接的结构特征。本文主要从结构领域入手,运用实物标本与文献资料相结合的研究方法,对江南大学民间服饰传习馆所藏的一款缀做衫进行结构复原工作,根据复原结构图,来研究缀做衫的结构机能性。研究表明,缀做衫的结构设计手法满足"服装机能性"的实用、好用和美三个层面,即前后中破缝与节省面料的"经济实用性",袖子和衣长的"劳作便利性"、紧胸和宽下摆的"卫生舒适性",表现视觉形式美感的分割和拼接,以及"压胸突腹"审美取向等诠释的民俗文化寓意。

Study on the Structure and Function of Zhuizuo Blouse

As one of the specific garment of Hui’an women in Fujian,the Zhuizuo blouse is inherited and developed from Jiexiu blouse in the end of the Qing dynasty.The Zhuizuo blouse is short and its above part is tight as well as its below part is loose,much segmentation,much collage,this is Zhuizuo blouse’s structure characteristics.The paper begins with the structure field,and takes the research methods of combining practicality with document,the authors have recovered the structure of Zhuizuo blouse in folk clothing museum of Jiangnan university,then researched the structure’s function of Zhuizuo blouse through the recovery structure sketches.The research shows that the Zhuizuo blouse’s structure meets three aspects as practical,convenience and beauty of clothing function,for example,the segmentation of centerline and saving fabrics show the economic practicability,the sleeve and the clothing length meet the need of labor and the bunch of chest and loose hem meet the need of healthy,the form of segmentation and collage which have the visual aesthetic feeling and the aesthetic orientation of hiding chest and highlighting abdomen interpret the folk cultural implication.