立体化思维对平面纸样设计合理性的影响

服装裁剪和制图的方法、手段及风格各有不同．在同一款式规格要求的条件下，设计出的平面结构图或纸样（纸型），往往存有差异。这些差异有些是可以找到合理性理由，主要表现在一些具体尺寸大小的选择差别上，与此同时有些差异却是互相矛盾的。如有的前领窝宽大于后领窝宽，有的则正好相反；有的省缝呈外弧线，有的呈内弧线等等。虽然这种矛盾状况不可能同时合理或正确，但有必要进行取舍，这就产生了纸样的结构合理性问题，而这种差异的根源，关键在于思维方法上，就不能简单地把纸样制图作为平面制图设计来对待，应更深入体会服装纸样设计具有其自身的特殊性。     

2001秋冬国际内衣流行趋势

在今年秋冬新推出的女性内衣款式中,花卉图案得到了越来越多的运用,以表现女性的美丽。全蕾丝的花卉文胸受到各个年龄段女子的喜爱。本季的蕾丝花卉图案以大朵盛开的花卉为主要特点。 NiniPicci的绛紫色全蕾丝文胸,颜色如宝石,花朵似雕刻,高贵华美,娇艳逼人。 Wacoal的Mistral淡蓝色文胸,全蕾丝面料,旋转的网眼和生动的花叶,使整件文胸清雅之中透出饰品般的柔媚,非常经典。 CottonClub的设计,加腰文胸花卉图案疏密有致,三角裤则仅在两侧有少许花卉点缀,上下不同,形成互补映衬。 LittleKiss的文胸底裤,采用大网眼全蕾丝,强调镂空效果,如同将刻花剪纸贴在身体上,雅致而且秀丽。     

书讯

《女装款式和纸样系列设计与训练手册》基本信息出版发行:作者:出版日期:开本:页数:定价:中国纺织出版社刘瑞璞王俊霞2010年7月16开364页42.00元     

探析现代女性纺织内衣的设计

本文对现代女性纺织内衣的设计进行全面的分析，从内衣的款式分类、款式设计、结构、功能等方面展开论述。最后，总结了现代女性纺织内衣的款式走向问题。     

基于岗位需求的服装纸样设计课程建设与改革

服装纸样设计课程在学科门类中属生活科学,是一门与企业生产有密切联系的实用学科,服装纸样设计必须要能够适应服装行业发展的需求,面对这样的情况,服装纸样设计课程的改革就显得相当重要。分析了企业对于服装纸样设计人才的需求,在此基础上就纸样设计课程的模块设置进行探讨,最后就服装纸样课程进行深化改革提出相关的建议。     

哺乳期智能文胸智能模块的优化设计

针对高发的哺乳期女性乳腺炎问题,开发了一款智能文胸,简述了其工作原理,从哺乳期女性压力传感装置及压力阀值、压力传感器数量、按摩系统元件、按摩智能启动时间,及整体线路设计等关键要素论述了按摩系统和智能预警系统两个智能模块的优化设计过程。     

塑形文胸结构与设计研究现状分析

文胸的结构设计属于服装造型设计的一类,是对服装设计的延伸和拓展,属于塑造服装形态美及结构组合美的重要一环,对于服装生产发挥着承上启下的功能,同时,文胸作为帖身衣物,其穿着的合体性将对人体呼吸和活动造成影响。因此,在保障衣身平衡的基础上,最大限度地体现人体美,是文胸的设计原则。本论文是针对女装胸部造型设计与结构设计关系论述,综述了近几十年国内外对文胸结构设计与胸衣压力舒适性的研究成果,着重讨论了胸部形态研究和文胸结构设计表征,并展望了塑形文胸的发展前景。     

CAD打板在针织服装中的应用

服装纸样CAD是集服装纸样设计、计算机图形学、数据库、网络通讯等多学科于一体的综合技术,是在服装结构设计理论指导下,采用人工智能技术的参数化设计理论。然而,目前诸多的CAD纸样系统仅仅给出了操作者各种必须的纸样设计工具,仅仅以鼠标代替笔、屏幕代替纸,这些系统大多由非服装专业的计算机人员开发,使用起来并非所有功能都十分方便。     

日本文化式新原型放码研究

本文详细探讨了女装原型各个部位的放码,通过研究各部位的关系利用档差进行放码,以中间规格标准纸样为基准,通过科学的计算,正确合理地分配尺寸,绘制出各规格或号型系列的裁剪用纸样的方法,比较实用,可以应用于女装各类款式放码及作为参考,满足当今服装工业的社会化大生产需求。     

谈谈现代成衣生产的服装纸样设计

探讨了服装纸样设计在大量生产中对服装生产的品质提高、成本降低、效率提高起着决定性作用。提出了服装纸样设计需要考虑如何利用原有基本结构原理,灵活应用到生产将给企业带来可观的经济利益。     

Female leadership in contemporary Chinese family firms

Drawing on a case study of a three-generation family business, this paper explores the antecedents and consequences of female leadership in contemporary Chinese family business. Our findings suggest that institutional change in contemporary China affects the role of female family members in the family system, which eventually gave rise to female leadership in China’s family businesses. We also propose that in comparison to male leadership, female leadership in Chinese family business is more concerned with balancing work-family conflict; more dependent upon the family’s endowment of resources; and more likely to favor a participative (rather than authoritative) decision-making style.     

Technology Push or Market Pull? Strategic Orientation in Business Model Design and Digital Start-up Performance*

The digital revolution is fundamentally reshaping the business landscape by generating abundant new opportunities and novel business models. As a new source of value creation, a start-up’s business model is critical for its survival and growth. How, then, should a digital start-up design its business model? The present study departs from existing viewpoints on the topic and proposes a strategic orientation view. By integrating the resource-based view and the demand-side perspective, we examine the impact of strategic orientation in business model design on the performance of start-ups in the digital economy. Using a data set of digital start-ups, our empirical results show that both technology and consumer orientations are beneficial to the performance of start-ups. However, it would be counterproductive for a digital start-up to seek a balance between both strategic orientations in business model design. Furthermore, the positive relationship between consumer orientation and firm performance becomes more prominent in a highly open technological environment, but is weakened in environments characterized by high user interactivity. This study advances business model design research by proposing a strategic orientation view, and contributes to business model theory building by offering an integrated view that embraces the resource-based view and the demand-side perspective.     

Corporate entrepreneurship initiatives: Antagonizing cognitive biases in business model design

Entrepreneurs designing novel business model configurations face cognitive biases that derive from limited mental capacity to deal with complex and uncertain decision contexts. Building on the notion of the business model as an idiosyncratic mental representation that organizes managerial understanding of value creating and value capture, we investigate how entrepreneurs cope with cognitive biases inherent in business model design. We conducted a total of 35 in‐depth interviews with entrepreneurs situated in 15 corporate entrepreneurship initiatives in Germany. Our study results suggest that entrepreneurs counter cognitive biases by combining intuitive and deliberate reasoning approaches. Specifically, we identify five cognitive mechanisms and two higher level cognitive processes undergirding entrepreneurial reasoning in the design of new business models. Our findings provide empirically grounded insights into the cognitive perspective in business model research and help to theorize managerial reasoning during the process of business model design.     

The role of proximity in business model design: Making business models work for those at the bottom of the pyramid

This paper explores the role of proximity in designing business models that work for those at the BoP. BoP markets represent an extreme setting where actors struggle to access and organise limited resources and develop appropriate socio-economic-political practices. Drawing on Boschma's (2005) concept of proximity, we analyse three historical cases of business at the BoP to uncover the spatial-temporal dimensions of business model design in practice. Findings suggest that 1) business model design practices iteratively structure connections with markets and open up new spaces for market activity. This means that business models are necessarily understood as plastic and continuously in-the-making; 2) by taking into account the stability and change of proximity dimensions and the dynamics between them as they relate to business activities, managers are better equipped to identity opportunities that create, shape and connect with markets; and 3) the spatial-temporal dynamic of the business model proximities framework reveals that some proximities strengthen others through time, with negative and positive consequences.     

Business processes inter-operation for supply network co-ordination

In a global supply network, the overall improvement of operational efficiency and customer satisfaction can only be achieved through greater co-ordination and collaboration of all the network members. However, full benefits of close co-operation within a global supply network can only be achieved when the business processes of the individual companies can inter-operate. Currently available commercial solutions are inadequate in supporting full network co-ordination in terms of business process changes and technical arrangements. This paper proposes a system that aims to improve the co-ordination of production planning and control activities across the supply network. To achieve this, it is important to develop new business processes and principles for company collaboration and corresponding information systems. This process starts from the identification of business and system requirements, which underlie the general business solutions for network co-ordination, developing the guiding design principles and subsequent process design and system implementation.     

Matching compensation and organizational strategies

This study examines the impact of organizational strategies (at both the corporate and business unit level) on pay strategies, and their interactive influence on the effectiveness of the compensation system. The empirical findings are based on the survey responses of 192 human resource management executives in business units of large manufacturing firms. Corporate strategy was a significant predictor of pay package design, pay level relative to the market, and pay administration policies. Business unit strategy was a significant predictor of pay package design and pay level relative to the market. The findings are supportive of congruency notions which suggest that the effectiveness of the compensation system is partly a function of the fit between pay strategies and organizational strategies.     

德希尼布——石化工业基础建设的最大承包商

德希尼布凭借对石油化工项目的设计及建造，跻身于国际最大承包商前十位，其发展战略对我国建筑业企业的发展具有借鉴意义。通过对德希尼布企业概况的阐述，对其业绩、主营业务及市场分布的分析，介绍了德希尼布的总体发展情况。从项目执行程序、人力资源管理、可持续发展等方面分析了该企业的发展战略。在借鉴其成功经验的基础上，对我国建筑业的发展提出几点建议。     

Industrial internet of things business models in the machine-to-machine context

This study analyzes Industrial Internet of Things (IIoT) business models in the machine-to-machine (M2M) context. Thereby, it develops a conceptual framework to categorize different types of business model innovation for companies operating in the M2M business space. Business model innovations tend to cross multiple industries and drive ecosystems in which smart objects facilitate business models and service applications that are incrementally or radically novel in terms of their modularity or architecture. Our framework identifies four distinct types of IIoT business models: (I) Company-specific business models, (II) Systemic business models, (III) Value designs, and (IV) Systemic value designs. Moreover, it sheds light on different abstraction levels of business model building blocks and exposes the characteristics and differences in the value potential between the four business models. Finally, we advance the idea of ‘value design’ referring to business models of multiple actors coupled together, ultimately resulting in complex networks and ecosystems of diverse things, processes, and companies.     

Your new product development (NPD) is only as good as your process: an exploratory analysis of new NPD process design and implementation

Given industry competitiveness, how do firms' new product development (NPD) process designs differ when responding to an innovation mandate? How do NPD design elements differ across firms when implementing NPD processes? These design elements are strategic business unit (SBU) senior management involvement, business case content, customer interactions, and cross‐functional integration. What are the consequences of different combinations of NPD process design elements for innovation productivity? We explore these questions via a collective case study of newly implemented NPD process designs at three different SBUs of a major US‐based international conglomerate, 1 year after receiving the mandate to grow through innovation. Our analysis suggests that industry competitiveness and firm characteristics influence the NPD process design as SBUs employ distinct combinations of NPD design elements. The differential emphasis on design elements leads to variation in process design and divergence in innovation productivity.     

A solution business model: Capabilities and management practices for integrated solutions

The developed solution business model framework assists firms wishing to design solution business models by categorizing capabilities and management practices necessary for the effective management of such a business model. The developed framework integrates findings from a wide variety of research streams with the empirical data collected in an abductive research process, involving ten firms with multi-national operations. The framework consist of a solution process with four phases (develop solutions, create demand, sell solution, and deliver solution) and three groups of cross-functionality issues (commercialization, industrialization, and solution platform). The framework identifies twelve capability categories, and sixty-four capabilities and management practices pertinent to the effective management of solution business. The research points to the importance of cross-functional alignment within firms. An effective solution business model requires the intricate coordination of resources and business processes across all functions.