EFFECT OF FIBRE CONTENT AND METHOD OF APPLICATION OF SELECTED INTERFACINGS ON PERFORMANCE OF GARMENTS AFTER REPEATED LAUNDERING

The purpose of the study was to investigate the effect of fibre content and method of application of selected interfacing fabrics on appearance of garments after repeated laundering. Experimental fabrics were three interfacings of 100% polyester sew-in, 100% rayon and 100% polyester fusible, and two white fashion fabrics of polyester/cotton durable press treated and 100% cotton. Thirty blouses were constructed and divided into six groups representing six combinations of fashion and interfacing fabrics. Evaluation methods included appearance, dimensional stability and stiffness. Data were statistically analysed using t tests and Pearson rank order correlation coefficient. Results showed that method of applying interfacing fabrics had a significant effect on appearance of the combined fashion and interfacing fabrics. Sew-in method resulted in satisfactory appearance throughout repeated laundering for polyester/cotton DP fabric. Deterioration of adhesive resin of fusible interfacings in the laundering process resulted in significant shrinkage and poor appearance. Also, relationship was found between per cent shrinkage and appearance ratings indicating that as per cent shrinkage increased, appearance ratings decreased. Effect of fibre content of interfacings on appearance was not significant. However, interfacing fabrics were found to be the major contributor to shrinkage of composite fabric and not the fashion fabrics. Poor appearance of fusible interfacings was related also to per cent loss of stiffness.     

Comparative study of phosphate and non-phosphate detergents

A comparison of three different detergents was made by evaluating their properties of soil removal, soil redeposition and calcium carbonate deposition. The detergents included a phosphate granular detergent, a non-phosphate, carbonate built granular detergent and an unbuilt liquid detergent. The local water conditions were moderately hard and clay type soils were used. Detergency was evaluated on the basis of both visual and instrumental colour changes. In effecting soil removal, clay stained fabrics laundered with the phosphate detergent retained only a small amount of soil, while fabrics laundered with the two non-phosphate detergents showed heavier staining. In preventing soil redeposition, the phosphate detergent produced almost no visible redeposition; the unbuilt and carbonate built detergents ranked correspondingly lower. In assessing calcium carbonate deposition, the phosphate and unbuilt detergents showed little or no change, while the carbonate detergent continued to build up deposits with laundering. In summary, the phosphate detergent ranked highest in overall performance, with correspondingly lesser performance from the unbuilt and carbonate detergents.     

Bacterial survival on fabrics laundered in cold water

The effect of detergent formulation and fabric type on bacterial survival after home laundering in cold water was investigated. Three fabrics, 65/35 polyester/cotton shirting, 100% cotton sheeting, and 100% cotton terry cloth, were inoculated with Staphylococcus aureus, laundered in cold 60 ± 5°F (16 ± 3°C) water and machine dried. Eight phosphorus-based powders and non-phosphorus detergents in both powder and liquid form were used. A control with no detergent was used. Percent reduction in bacteria after machine washing and after machine drying were determined. Of the eight detergents studied, only two effectively removed 100% of the bacteria from the cotton terry cloth after washing. These were sodium carbonate and aluminosilicate-based powders, one of which contained sodium perborate, the other included enzymes. All of the detergents used removed > 97% of bacteria from the polyester/cotton shirting and cotton sheeting fabrics. No significant cross contamination occurred with any fabric. A greater percent reduction of bacteria was obtained with the terry cloth samples after washing and tumble drying than after washing alone. The implications of the study are important for consumers who are using colder water in the laundering process. This study found that bacteria were removed more easily from the two plain weave fabrics than the looped terry cloth fabric. The effectiveness of tumble drying after cold water laundering to reduce bacteria in the terry cloth towelling was an important finding.     

The effect of phosphate detergent bans on consumer clothing expenditures

Metropolitan sales data from the 1977 Census of Retail Trade were analysed to test whether phosphate detergent bans increased consumer expenditure on clothing: positive effects were found for men's clothing and domestic fabrics (sheets and towels). In areas with medium water hardness the average annual cost in 1977 equalled $11·08 per household. For 1984, the equivalent cost was $14·17 per household. These results are consistent with laboratory studies that show decreased detergency associated with non-phosphate detergents and increased fabric wear associated with carbonate-built detergents, the principle substitute for phosphate detergents. The bans impose the largest cost on hard water areas. In both ban and non-ban areas in 1977 higher laundering costs were associated with higher water hardness. Analysis of 1972 data indicated that water hardness did not affect clothing expenditures significantly when detergents contained large amounts of phosphates.     

Detergents,clothing and the consumer with sensitive skin

A typical detergent formulation for domestic garment washing is a complex formulation comprising: surfactants, builders, bleaches and auxiliary agents. Repeated exposure to surfactants can cause damage to the lipid film layer of the skin. Textile constructions used in clothing are also complex. Most apparel fabrics will be subject to a laundering process containing detergent at some time in the life cycle and thus it can be surmised that the combination of clothing and detergent is likely to be the cause of some skin problems. Certain fibre types show higher absorption rates than others. If surfactants present in domestic detergents are preferentially absorbed into the fabric during laundering and inadequately removed by rinsing a build‐up of the surfactant may exacerbate skin irritation. This paper offers a review of the debate on the effects of detergents on skin disorders plus recent research on clothing and detergents.     

CONSUMER ATTITUDES TOWARDS LEVEL OF SOIL REMOVAL AND ENERGY USE IN THE LAUNDERING PROCESS

A series of fabric swatches depicting various levels of soil removal were presented to consumers, with one-half of the subjects being given energy requirements to obtain each level of soil removal. A whiteness index of 50 was found to be the minimum acceptable level of soil removal. Information on resources required to obtain the various levels of soil removal did not change the minimum level of acceptance. Attitudes of consumers concerning ecological issues, obtained from a questionnaire, did not correlate with consumers' acceptance scores. There was some indication from the questionnaire data that consumers might be willing to make some trade-offs for monetary savings in place of maximum levels of soil removal. The level of acceptance of soil removal was most closely related to attitude toward cleanliness and neatness.     

An investigation into some aspects of the efficiency of low-temperature laundering

The purpose of this research was to investigate the efficiency of laundering at low and recommended water temperatures using a heavy-duty biological detergent and a low-temperature detergent. The effectiveness of the process was measured in terms of the degree of stain/soil removal from laundered garments, and in the removal and transfer of bacteria from infected test pieces. The results indicate that with both detergents a reduction in washing efficiency occurs as the temperature of laundering is decreased, except when the difference between the recommended and low water temperature is small. Evidence was also obtained that shows that reducing wash temperatures decreases the degree of disinfection and increases the cross-infection of articles washed in the same load.     

The effect of fiber type on the handle of fabric for sportshirts

Three sportshirt fabrics made from cotton, cotton/nylon blend, and nylon respectively, were evaluated in terms of fabric handle by 40 female consumers. Few differences were found between the first two fabrics but 100% nylon fabric was less acceptable. Knowledge of fiber type present had a marked effect on handle judgments.     

A study of the effects of repeated commercial launderings on the performance of 50/50 polyester/cotton momie cloth

Samples of brown 50% polyester/50% cotton momie cloth with a fluorocarbon finish were commercially laundered using a carbonate-built detergent in soft (0 ppm) water. The appearance of the laundered samples was assessed by subjective pilling ratings and instrumental colour determinations; the performance properties examined were tear and tensile strength, abrasion resistance and ability to release oil. The results showed that pilling was at its maximum after 20 launderings. The depth of colour decreased with increased number of cycles and, in most cases, was not accompanied by change of hue Tear and tensile strength were not affected by the laundering process. The fluorocarbon finish on the unlaundered control increased the weight loss due to Accelerator abrasion, thus that due to repeated launderings was significantly less. The finish protected the fibres from flex abrasion, increasing the number of cycles required to rupture the fabric and only the sample laundered 60 times had significantly greater resistance. The ability to release oil decreased with increased number of launderings. Oil remaining in the fabric was located in the interstices between yarns.     

THE COST OF WASHING CLOTHES: SOURCES OF VARIATION

This paper develops the national average cost of washing clothes by examining consumer research data on the frequencies of using various water temperature settings and laundry additives and by utilizing national surveys of laundry product prices. Variations in these costs are shown to be significantly affected by three variables: (1) costs increase with family size due to the higher number of loads washed, (2) costs increase in areas where phosphate detergents are not available due to an increased use of hot water and laundry additives and (3) costs increase in harder water areas due to an increased use of hot water and fabric softener. The average increased cost for energy and laundry additives per family due to the nonavailability of phosphate detergents exceeds $11.00 per year. In addition to this amount, increased wear on washing machine parts and fabrics from the use of carbonate-built detergents significantly increases the costs to consumers in nonphosphate areas.     

FABRIC APPEARANCE AND HANDLE

Consumer judgment of the quality of a fabric depends on appearance and handle and in this paper factors such as fibre content, fabric construction, finish and illumination which influence these parameters are discussed in detail. The rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics are also considered and statistical procedures used for rating subjective assessments are described.     

Comparative performance of polyester,polypropylene and chlorofibre thermal fabrics in simulated consumer use

Polyester, polypropylene, chlorofibre/acrylic and polypropylene/acrylic/wool thermal fabrics were compared for water absorption/wicking, pilling and relaxation following elongation. The polypropylene fabrics did not absorb water. Wicking was related to the mass of all but the polypropylene/acrylic/wool fabric, which had a structure unlike that of any of the other fabrics. The polypropylene/acrylic/wool blend had the optimal resistance to pilling, least dimensional change in laundering and negligible growth after elongation.     

PILE UPHOLSTERY FABRICS–CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS AND ABRASION RESISTANCE

Pile fabrics are currently enjoying a renewed popularity. They are not only an important upholstery fabric but also are gaining importance in other textile end-uses such as apparel, footwear, toys and accessories. Pile fabrics are made in both natural and synthetic fibres as well as natural and synthetic fibre blends. The study was an attempt to develop a procedure to evaluate the physical properties of pile fabrics to determine their suitability for specific end-uses. The study defined and tested different pile fabric samples which were representative of the 1979 interior textile fabric lines. Six pile fabrics, each with different fibre contents were subjected to seven separate tests and the results reported. The tests included fibre identification, fabric weight determination, fabric thickness determination, breaking load determination, tearing strength determination, and abrasion resistance determination. The results found that pile upholstery fabrics of different generic fibres performed differently when subjected to physical testing. The results obtained from the physical properties tests gave results which can be used to compare pile fabrics of different generic fibre content.     

Comparison of the washing efficiencies of a laboratory washing device (Launder‐Ometer) and of automatic household washing machines with horizontal drums

The objective of this study was to compare the cleaning result of a laboratory washing machine – Launder‐Ometer (LOM) – with that of drum‐type household washing machines, using detergent without bleaching agent, standard soiled fabrics and a colorimeter for assessing the washing result. The mechanical effect applied to the laundry in the household washers was not obtained in the LOM by increasing mechanical impact or the number of metal balls. Extended washing time did not improve removal of blood soil in the LOM, although it did increase removal of mayonnaise soil containing chlorophyll. However, in practice a washing time of 60–85 min is relatively long for a laboratory device considering the claimed time‐saving nature of these devices. None of the examined parameters affected removal of a red wine soil containing tannins, which was poor in all test combinations both in the household machines and in the laboratory washing machine. Bleaching agent is recommended for removal of this type of soil. In conclusion, conformity between washing results of the laboratory washing machine and the drum‐type household washing machines depends on the type of soiled test fabrics and other parameters in the washing process. Removal of blood soil differed most between the household machines and the LOM.     

Relationship of wash/rinse water temperatures to soil removal

Samples of cotton, polyester and nylon fabrics were soiled by application of synthetic sebum and clay and then laundered at various combinations of hot, warm and cold wash and rinse water temperatures. The temperature of the rinse water did not affect the amount of soil removed from the fabrics. More soil was generally removed with hot wash water than with warm or cold water. The soil was more readily removed from the nylon than from the cotton or polyester fabrics. All wash/rinse treatments removed soil to a level that would probably be acceptable to most consumers.     

HOME LAUNDERING PART II. A LABORATORY EVALUATION OF THE WASHING PERFORMANCE OF FOUR DETERGENT PRODUCTS AT 40°C

A detailed comparison of the washing performance of four detergent products is discussed. The results of experiments using stained tea and terry towels and fabrics having standard stains, clearly indicate that the performance of liquid home laundering formulations commercially available in the U.K. and France does not compare favourably with the results obtained from perborate-containing powder products.     

THE NATURE AND ACTION OF FABRIC SOFTENERS

Although the market for fabric softeners has grown in recent years very little is known of how they function in practice. In this review the properties and uses of cationic fabric softeners in relation to their chemical structure is discussed.     

EFFECT OF TEXTILE QUOTA RESTRICTIONS ON U.S. COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS BETWEEN 1964 AND 1973

The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of U.S. cotton textile quotas on cotton textiles imported into the U.S. between 1964 and 1973. The findings showed that cotton imports requiring more processing stages had significantly greater 10-year average prices than other groups. Changes in the dollar value of imported cotton textiles during the decade have mainly occurred because of an increase in the average prices rather than resulting from a redistribution of imports from low to high average price groups. The weakening correlation between changes in the dollar value and in the quantity of high unit value groups indicated that the control on quantity has not precluded increases in total dollar value of imports in higher processing stages, especially since 1970. Since fabrics with a relatively stable average price accounted for the major importation of cotton textiles during the 1964–1973 period, the overall control by quantity in this decade was still quite good, even though average prices of apparel were rising.     

DURABILITY CHOICE AND THE PIRACY FOR PROFIT OF GOODS

We explore the impact of durable goods piracy in a simple two‐period durability choice setting where an originator faces a future for‐profit pirate that clones or duplicates copies of the durable good. We find that a social planner, as well as a monopoly originator, may well engage in a sort of ‘reversed planned obsolescence’. In other words, they manufacture a product that is more durable than the first‐best cost‐minimizing level, if they cannot directly control the pirate. We show this occurs even in rental or committed sales settings, indicating Swan's market independence result does not hold here.     

The effects of skirt lining properties on comfort and movement

This study was conducted to clarify the influences of the lining properties of skirts upon comfort and movement. The comfort of lining fabrics and real skirts with and without lining was rated by sensory tests on the basis of sensorial comfort on the skin and body movement. Actual body movements were investigated by motion analysis while the skirts were being worn. The results are described: (1) Comfort on the skin, movement and overall preference for the lining fabrics were evaluated by sensory testing, comparing skirts made with five kinds of lining fabrics. Conventional non‐stretch cupro lining was ranked first on the basis of smoothness and good feel to the skin. Two‐way stretch lining was also ranked highly in terms of ease of movement. We discuss how sensorial comfort on the skin and ease of movement related to overall preference for lining fabrics. (2) Sensory test of the actual skirts with and without lining clearly confirmed that lining played a role in improving comfort. (3) For a non‐stretch fabric skirt, conventional lining was ranked highly for good feel to the skin, and two‐way stretch lining was considered useful for ease of movement. There was no significant difference between the two lining fabrics in overall preference. (4) For a stretch fabric skirt, stretch lining is the most useful because it maintains easy extension of the outer fabric, thus allowing ease of body movement. (5) Motion analysis showed that a combination of knitted stretch skirts with stretch lining was the best for ease of movement. Comparing the sidelines and the hemline of the stretch fabric skirts demonstrated a better shape using lining.