SUBJECTIVE ASSESSMENT OF FABRIC COMFORT BY SENSORY HAND

Current economic pressure and high energy cost brought about consumer demands for functional qualities from textile products they purchase. Fabrics are styled in a wide range of tactile and physical properties to meet consumer wants. This study investigated subjective and objective assessment of comfort properties of blouse fabrics which represent various fibre content and fabric structure. Subjective ratings showed that blend and natural fibres were preferred to man-made for all comfort attributes except smoothness and woven was chosen over knit for smoothness, thickness, and openness. Spearman correlation between subjective rating and objective measurements showed good association for warmth and absorbency but the dearth of relationship for openness, smoothness, and thickness. This may indicate the panel's acceptance of both polar opposites of those hand attributes for blouse fabrics. Multiple regression analyses showed that five subjective attributes entered contributed 47.9% to overall comfort variability, whereas five objective properties chosen explained 53.2% of overall comfort ratings.     

Sensory evaluation and physico‐chemical measurements of tomatoes commonly consumed in New Zealand

Five different locally sourced commercially grown tomatoes (cultivars; Aranca, Excell, Flavourine, Mondeo and Solairo) and one grown in Australia (Gourmet) were subjected to sensory evaluation using a consumer taste panel. Physico‐chemical characteristics (CIE colour, dry matter, °Brix, titratable acidity, pH and °Brix : acid ratio) were also measured on the tomatoes. Overall, the sensory evaluation results showed that there were differences between the tomato cultivar most likely to be purchased (Excell, bright red skin colour) and the tomato liked most overall (Aranca, darker red skin colour). Panellists gave a wide range of juiciness and hardness scores to the tomatoes evaluated. Cultivars Flavourine, Aranca and Solairo were moderately sweet while Excell, Mondeo and Gourmet were regarded as not sweet at all. Physico‐chemical results showed that the New Zealand grown tomato varieties evaluated were comparable with other tomatoes grown in New Zealand while most tomatoes were redder and had higher titratable acidity compared with studies of tomato varieties from other countries. The panellists initially ranked the tomatoes on the redness of skin colour but changed their rankings when they had assessed their taste and texture.     

Gender,fashion consumer group,need for touch and Korean apparel consumers' shopping channel preference

Shopping preferences are affected by the culture in which an individual grows up as well as by individual differences in consumers such as differences in gender, fashion leadership and need for touch. The current study examined the influence of consumers' need for touch and fashion leadership on preference for shopping outlets (e.g. touch and non‐touch shopping channels) between genders and within a particular culture. The purpose of this study was to examine gender, fashion consumer group, need for touch and Korean apparel consumers' shopping channel preference. Participants were a convenience sample of 262 Korean college students who were recruited in Changwon, South Korea. A questionnaire was compiled that included a request for demographic information, the Need For Touch scale, the Measure of Fashion Innovativeness and Opinion Leadership, and items assessing preference for touch and non‐touch shopping channels for clothing. Women and men did not differ in overall need for touch or instrumental need for touch. Fashion change agents and fashion followers did not differ in their preference for touch and non‐touch shopping channels. Preference for touch shopping channels was more greatly affected by variables such as need for touch, gender, and fashion innovativeness and opinion leadership than preference for non‐touch shopping channels. Preference for non‐touch shopping channels was virtually unaffected by the variables examined in the current study. Implications for theory and research are provided.     

An analysis of modern fashion designs as influenced by Asian ethnic dress

This study analysed modern fashion designs which show influences of Asian ethnic dresses focusing on China, Indonesia, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. A total of 190 designs presented during 1982–97 were collected from seven magazines. There were 68 designs with Chinese influences, 49 for Japan, 35 for Korea, 21 for Indonesia and 5 for Vietnam. Twelve designs showed the influences of more than one country. Each design was content analysed in terms of eleven aspects (shape, garment type, silhouette, colour, feature of fabric, surface pattern, trimming, how to wear, accessories, hair‐style and make‐up). The degree of influence was measured on a 3‐point scale ranging from 1 (symbolic resemblance) to 2 (modification) and 3 (replication). The results confirmed that China and Japan have been the most well‐known sources of Oriental culture in fashion world. Influence of ethnic dresses were most evident in the aspects related to materials (surface pattern, feature of fabric and colour). The Indonesian sarong and the way to wrap skirts around the waist were also frequently adopted in modern fashion.     

Detergents,clothing and the consumer with sensitive skin

A typical detergent formulation for domestic garment washing is a complex formulation comprising: surfactants, builders, bleaches and auxiliary agents. Repeated exposure to surfactants can cause damage to the lipid film layer of the skin. Textile constructions used in clothing are also complex. Most apparel fabrics will be subject to a laundering process containing detergent at some time in the life cycle and thus it can be surmised that the combination of clothing and detergent is likely to be the cause of some skin problems. Certain fibre types show higher absorption rates than others. If surfactants present in domestic detergents are preferentially absorbed into the fabric during laundering and inadequately removed by rinsing a build‐up of the surfactant may exacerbate skin irritation. This paper offers a review of the debate on the effects of detergents on skin disorders plus recent research on clothing and detergents.     

Light as a feather: Effects of packaging imagery on sensory product impressions and brand evaluation

Inspired by the increasing importance of packaging design for product and brand management, this study tests effects of movement visuals and location of imagery on sensorial product impressions. Participants were exposed to a packaging variant for a fictitious brand of washing powder. Subsequently, they smelled packaging contents, estimated package weight, and evaluated product and brand. Findings show that movement visuals connoting upward (versus downward) movement resulted in the experience of a less concentrated smell, but only when presented in the top-left region of the package. Furthermore, imagery located in the top-left (versus bottom-right) region induced lower estimates of package weight. Additionally, findings show that location and movement visuals impact brand image formation and consumer preference.     

PILE UPHOLSTERY FABRICS–CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS AND ABRASION RESISTANCE

Pile fabrics are currently enjoying a renewed popularity. They are not only an important upholstery fabric but also are gaining importance in other textile end-uses such as apparel, footwear, toys and accessories. Pile fabrics are made in both natural and synthetic fibres as well as natural and synthetic fibre blends. The study was an attempt to develop a procedure to evaluate the physical properties of pile fabrics to determine their suitability for specific end-uses. The study defined and tested different pile fabric samples which were representative of the 1979 interior textile fabric lines. Six pile fabrics, each with different fibre contents were subjected to seven separate tests and the results reported. The tests included fibre identification, fabric weight determination, fabric thickness determination, breaking load determination, tearing strength determination, and abrasion resistance determination. The results found that pile upholstery fabrics of different generic fibres performed differently when subjected to physical testing. The results obtained from the physical properties tests gave results which can be used to compare pile fabrics of different generic fibre content.     

Sleepwear acquisitions and attributes: preferences related to personality types

While sleepwear has been more stable than other facets of the apparel industry, sales have decreased. This research explored acquisition of sleepwear by college women, desired attribute characteristics, and preferred styles using an author-developed questionnaire. Most sleepwear was self-selected from department stores. Preferences were for natural fibres and knit fabrics, followed by satin. Comfort was the attribute ranked highest; brand and sexiness were ranked lowest. Preferred styles were: tops (crop and camisole) and pants [short and tap (French knickers style)], T-shirts, and man-tailored shirts. Personality types were determined using the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI); most of the participants were intuitive-feeling types. No significant relation between sleepwear preference and personality type was found. Manufacturers and retailers need to be aware of the market diversity and capable of adapting to consumer needs, identifying consumer needs and preferences and effectively targeting markets are crucial to economic success. Implications are discussed.     

The effect of fiber type on the handle of fabric for sportshirts

Three sportshirt fabrics made from cotton, cotton/nylon blend, and nylon respectively, were evaluated in terms of fabric handle by 40 female consumers. Few differences were found between the first two fabrics but 100% nylon fabric was less acceptable. Knowledge of fiber type present had a marked effect on handle judgments.     

Comparative study of phosphate and non-phosphate detergents

A comparison of three different detergents was made by evaluating their properties of soil removal, soil redeposition and calcium carbonate deposition. The detergents included a phosphate granular detergent, a non-phosphate, carbonate built granular detergent and an unbuilt liquid detergent. The local water conditions were moderately hard and clay type soils were used. Detergency was evaluated on the basis of both visual and instrumental colour changes. In effecting soil removal, clay stained fabrics laundered with the phosphate detergent retained only a small amount of soil, while fabrics laundered with the two non-phosphate detergents showed heavier staining. In preventing soil redeposition, the phosphate detergent produced almost no visible redeposition; the unbuilt and carbonate built detergents ranked correspondingly lower. In assessing calcium carbonate deposition, the phosphate and unbuilt detergents showed little or no change, while the carbonate detergent continued to build up deposits with laundering. In summary, the phosphate detergent ranked highest in overall performance, with correspondingly lesser performance from the unbuilt and carbonate detergents.     

FABRIC SPECIALITY STORES: CONSUMER DISSATISFACTION WITH SELECTED IN-STORE ATTRIBUTES

This consumer dissatisfaction study focused on selected in-store attributes of the fabric speciality store. The procedure was to select fifteen fabric speciality stores at random in the Phoenix area and distribute thirty questionnaires to customers at each store. The 264 returns were analysed by examining the respondents' comments about the fabric speciality store most often shopped in, the respondents' ratings of the statements concerning the average fabric speciality store's attributes and the complaints the respondents made to fabric speciality stores. The fabric speciality store attributes found to be both important and dissatisfying included: salesperson's helpfulness, variety of fabrics, quality of fabrics, salesperson's product knowledge and fabric price.     

The preference for scarcity: A developmental and comparative perspective

Human adults often show a preference for scarce over abundant goods. In this paper, we investigate whether this preference was shared by 4‐ and 6‐year‐old children as well as chimpanzees, humans’ nearest primate relative. Neither chimpanzees nor 4‐year‐olds displayed a scarcity preference, but 6‐year‐olds did, especially in the presence of competitors. We conclude that scarcity preference is a human‐unique preference that develops as humans increase their cognitive skills and social experiences with peers and competitors. We explore different potential psychological explanations for scarcity preference and conclude scarcity preference is based on children's fear of missing out an opportunity, especially when dealing with uncertainty or goods of unknown value in the presence of competitors. Furthermore, the results are in line with studies showing that supply‐based scarcity increases the desirability of hedonic goods, suggesting that even as early as 6 years of age humans may use scarce goods to feel unique or special.     

Production and sensory characteristics of flavoured soymilk samples

The sensory quality characteristics of four flavoured soymilk samples including vanilla, banana, coffee and chocolate were evaluated at varying concentrations of the flavour. This was done to establish the most acceptable flavour and desired concentration for commercial production of soymilk and also to facilitate increased consumption of soymilk for improved nutrition. Hot extraction of the milk from blanched soybeans was achieved by blending in hot water and sieving through muslin cloth. Different concentration levels of the flavours being assessed, namely chocolate, coffee, vanilla and banana, were added. Consumer preference for the various samples was assessed using a nine‐point hedonic scale. Addition of flavours was found to improve the sensory characteristics and consumer preference of soymilk. Colour, taste, aroma, mouthfeel and hence overall acceptability of the soymilk samples were improved significantly by the addition of vanilla, banana, coffee and chocolate flavours. The maximum concentrations of the individual flavours for optimal sensory impact were established. Based on the results, the following flavour concentrations are recommended per 100 ml of soymilk: 0.03% vanilla, 0.01% banana, 1.5% coffee and 4% chocolate.     

Comfort in brick and mortar shopping experiences: Examining antecedents and consequences of comfortable retail experiences

This paper explores the comfort construct in brick and mortar retail settings. As a psychological construct, consumer comfort reflects a sense of ease and peace of mind during a shopping experience. Previous research suggests comfort carries a number of positive consequences for managers, such as strengthening customer relationships and increasing customer satisfaction (Gaur and Xu, 2009). However, these studies take a more interpersonal relationship theory approach and have not considered the impact of non-social aspects of retail environments on consumers' comfort. Moreover, these extant studies have not considered how comfortable environments create value for consumers. Consequently, this study examines how atmospheric elements contribute to creating consumer comfort, and how comfort impacts consumers' perceptions of shopping value. Findings from survey data demonstrate that not all atmospheric elements influence consumers' comfort levels. Moreover, comfortable environments were found to increase both utilitarian value and hedonic value. The implications of the findings for academics and managers are discussed.     

Factors affecting non‐green consumer behaviour: an exploratory study among Chinese consumers

The purpose of this study was to explore the factors that affect a typical non‐green consumption behaviour among Chinese consumers. A conceptual framework was developed and an empirical study was conducted using a geographically diverse sample of Chinese consumers. Based on the consumer choice theory, the conceptual framework in the current study included both economic and non‐economic factors. Ten research hypotheses were developed under the framework. A survey was conducted among 600 consumers in four cities in China in 2013. Confirmatory factor analysis and hierarchical regression analysis were used for hypothesis testing. The empirical results showed that consumer preference, reference groups, and face perception have a significantly positive effect on the consumers’ non‐green consumption behaviour; whereas budget constraints and social responsibility consciousness have a significantly negative effect on the consumers’ non‐green consumption behaviour. Furthermore, the current research demonstrated that the relationships between consumer non‐green behaviour and its four antecedents – budget constraint, reference groups, social responsibility consciousness and face perception – are significantly moderated by extravagant atmosphere; whereas the relationship between consumer non‐green behaviour and consumer preference is not moderated by extravagant atmosphere.     

EFFECT OF FIBRE CONTENT AND METHOD OF APPLICATION OF SELECTED INTERFACINGS ON PERFORMANCE OF GARMENTS AFTER REPEATED LAUNDERING

The purpose of the study was to investigate the effect of fibre content and method of application of selected interfacing fabrics on appearance of garments after repeated laundering. Experimental fabrics were three interfacings of 100% polyester sew-in, 100% rayon and 100% polyester fusible, and two white fashion fabrics of polyester/cotton durable press treated and 100% cotton. Thirty blouses were constructed and divided into six groups representing six combinations of fashion and interfacing fabrics. Evaluation methods included appearance, dimensional stability and stiffness. Data were statistically analysed using t tests and Pearson rank order correlation coefficient. Results showed that method of applying interfacing fabrics had a significant effect on appearance of the combined fashion and interfacing fabrics. Sew-in method resulted in satisfactory appearance throughout repeated laundering for polyester/cotton DP fabric. Deterioration of adhesive resin of fusible interfacings in the laundering process resulted in significant shrinkage and poor appearance. Also, relationship was found between per cent shrinkage and appearance ratings indicating that as per cent shrinkage increased, appearance ratings decreased. Effect of fibre content of interfacings on appearance was not significant. However, interfacing fabrics were found to be the major contributor to shrinkage of composite fabric and not the fashion fabrics. Poor appearance of fusible interfacings was related also to per cent loss of stiffness.     

Food choices in Ethiopia: does nutritional information matter?

This article reports results from a framed market experiment conducted to examine whether milk choices are responsive to changes in the nutritional characteristics of milk products. Using a random‐effect Tobit model, we analyzed experimental data collected from 160 participants in urban Ethiopia. It shows that sensory properties play a key role in the acceptance of reduced‐fat milk while the provision of nutrition information has a mixed effect on a price premium. Further, a substantial percentage of participants were found to have a strong preference for whole milk while only 19% of them prefer reduced‐fat milk with 2.8% price premium. The study unveils a heterogeneous preference for the nutritional quality of milk products. Consumers’ health problems and socio‐demographic characteristics influence their preference for the nutritional quality of milk products. The result also shows a nutrition‐taste tradeoff, yet consumers place more value on sensory experience. Contrary to earlier studies, we found that prior belief about milk quality influences how consumers value sensory experience and nutrition information.     

The effect of linear density of polyamide filaments on the comfort and performance of ladies hosiery

This study used 49 female consumers, to investigate the effect of variation in the linear density of polyamide filaments used in the construction of ladies opaque tights, on a range of comfort and performance factors. Two sets of tights were used. Each set consisted of three types of tights manufactured from micro, semi‐micro and conventional filaments respectively. The first set incorporated Lycra in alternate courses while the second set incorporated Lycra in every course. The hosiery was assessed by means of a number of ranking and rating scales after having been worn and washed five times. The tights made from micro and semi‐micro filaments were generally much preferred to those made from conventionally thicker filaments. The differences between the perceptions of tights made from the micro and semi‐micro filaments were small, and there appears little to be gained by using the lowest linear density micro filaments. Consumers preferences with regard to overall comfort agreed closely with preferences emerging from initial handle assessments. The hypothesis is advanced that for clothing worn next to the skin handle assessments could obviate the need for more expensive, time consuming and lengthy wearer trials.     

Third‐country Effects of Regional Trade Agreements

Does regionalism negatively impact non‐members? To answer this question, we examine the effect of regional trade agreements (RTAs) on imports from non‐members and the tariffs that they face. Using data from six RTAs in Latin America and Europe, we do not find evidence that implementation of the regional agreements is associated with trade diversion from third countries to regional members. Using detailed industry data on preference margins and most‐favoured nation (MFN) tariffs for three trade agreements in Latin America over 12 years, we find that greater preference margins do not significantly reduce imports from third countries. We also look at the effect of preferences on external tariffs. We find evidence that preferential tariff reduction tends to precede the reduction of external MFN tariffs in a given sector, offering evidence of tariff complementarity. Overall, the results suggest that regionalism does not significantly harm non‐members.     

The use of repertory grid techniques in the evaluation of fabric handle

The reproducibility of a repertory grid for the evaluation of fabric handle was investigated by means of consumer responses to a series of fabrics. The consumer panel evaluated the same fabrics on three separate occasions. On the first and third occasion, the fabrics were seen and on the second occasion unseen. Correlations at high levels of significance were generally found between results obtained on each occasion. This was particularly true of the two seen tests.