From quantity to quality: understanding slow fashion consumers for sustainability and consumer education

There is a growing interest in slow fashion, a production method which emphasizes quality as a way of achieving sustainability in the fashion industry. In order to develop a sophisticated and targeted marketing strategy, this study aimed to identify potential slow fashion consumer segments and understand their characteristics. The final 221 completed responses from a sample of nationwide U.S. consumers were analyzed by cluster analysis. Based on consumer orientation to slow fashion, four consumer groups were identified: Highly‐involved in slow fashion group, Conventional group, Exclusivity oriented group and Low‐involved in slow fashion group. The characteristics of each group were profiled according to personal values, apparel consumption behaviours and demographics. With distinctive profiles of each group, different marketing strategies were suggested to address the needs of each group effectively. This study extends academic understanding of slow fashion in consumer perspectives, and provides important perspectives for consumer education on apparel consumption.     

Exit from the high street: an exploratory study of sustainable fashion consumption pioneers

In today's fashion system, dominated by business models predicated on continual consumption and globalized production systems that have major environmental and social impacts, the consumption of ‘sustainable fashion’ takes on an almost paradoxical quality. This paper explores this paradox by focusing on a previously under‐researched group of consumers – ‘sustainable fashion consumption pioneers’ who actively engage and shape their own discourse around the notion of sustainable fashion consumption. These pioneers actively create and communicate strategies for sustainable fashion behaviour that can overcome the nebulous and somewhat paradoxical reality that sustainable development in the fashion industry presents. Specifically, we use passive netnography and semi‐structured interviews to illuminate the role of motivational and contextual factors that help shape these consumers' definitions of sustainable fashion including such key behaviours as purchasing fewer garments of higher quality, exiting the retail market, purchasing only second‐hand fashion goods and sewing or upgrading their own clothing. Central to much of these behaviours is the notion that personal style, rather than fashion, can bridge the potential disconnect between sustainability and fashion while also facilitating a sense of well‐being not found in traditional fashion consumption. As such, our research suggests that for these consumers sustainability is as much about reducing measurable environmental or social impacts as it is about incorporating broader concepts through which to achieve goals beyond the pro‐environmental or ethical.     

An empirical analysis of demand variations and markdown policies for fashion retailers

In this paper, using data from a leading specialty apparel retailer, we empirically examine the determinants of a retailer's dynamic pricing policy and investigate consumer response to price changes (markdowns) throughout a fashion product's selling season using a product diffusion setting. In order to do that, we first develop and estimate a markdown pricing model and a consumer demand model that capture the important characteristics of the fashion apparel market. Next, we use the estimates from these two models to design and simulate four alternative markdown pricing policies to investigate the impact of these different policies on consumer demand and retailer revenues. Our results, in line with the previous literature, show that markdowns implemented early in the season but small in magnitude generate the highest retailer revenues. Our paper not only provides a comprehensive empirical framework for fashion apparel retailers that is easy to implement, but also shows that using this framework will lead to timely decision making and will improve sale and revenue outcomes in the fast paced fashion world.     

The effect of consumers' involvement and innovativeness on the utilization of fashion wardrobe

This study proposed wardrobe utilization as a means of explaining consumer clothing use behaviour, and aimed to explore its relationship with other antecedent variables. We posit that use innovativeness functions as an antecedent of wardrobe utilization within a model comprised of fashion‐related variables, such as fashion innovativeness and fashion involvement. An empirical study was conducted to test this relationship with 211 adult women between the ages of 20 and 40 years. In order to calculate wardrobe utilization, the number of clothing items worn by each respondent was divided by the total number of clothes that the respective respondent owns. The findings of this study revealed a measureable effect of use innovativeness on wardrobe utilization and apparel purchase behaviour. In addition, fashion innovativeness and fashion involvement was shown to affect use innovativeness; however, the two variables did not have a significant impact on influencing wardrobe utilization. These results showed that use innovativeness plays a role of the full mediator variable in the path from fashion involvement and fashion innovativeness to wardrobe utilization. These also indicated that people who are very innovative in their use of fashion are likely to broadly utilize their respective wardrobes. Finally, the impact of purchase behaviour on wardrobe utilization was dismissed, as purchase behaviour and use behaviour were found to be clearly distinguished from one another. Clothing utilization is related to the life cycle of clothes including their purchase, usage and disposal. And in better understanding clothing utilization, the needless waste of clothing would be reduced and would encourage better management of clothes after their purchase. In the context of the product life cycle, this study of clothing use behaviour can assist in building a more sustainable environment for the textile and fashion industry.     

Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice

The fashion industry has recently heeded the call for sustainability and ethically sound production. There has been, however, a reluctant uptake of these products with many consumers and a seeming conflict with existing ‘fast fashion’ desires in this area. This study explores the attitudes of fashion consumers toward sustainable products, ethical fashion purchasing and their subsequent behaviour. The research applies the developmental theory model to a fashion context, finding fashion consumers can be categorized into one of three groups: ‘Self’ consumers, concerned with hedonistic needs, ‘Social’ consumers, concerned with social image and ‘Sacrifice’ consumers who strive to reduce their impact on the world. These different groups view fast fashion in conflicting ways and subsequent implications for marketing sustainably produced fashion products to each group are, thus, significantly different.     

Antecedents and outcomes of fashion innovativeness in retailing

Challenging market conditions force the fashion industry to find new ways of introducing new products, adjusting and stimulating unplanned purchases within fashion stores. Fashion innovativeness and visual merchandising play a key role in this challenge. This study examines how fashion innovativeness is related to motivational factors for shopping and actual unplanned purchases in fashion retailing. It also investigates the moderating effect of visual merchandising on the relationship between fashion innovativeness and unplanned purchases. The data, obtained through a consumer survey, were analysed using factor analyses and structural equation modelling. The results show that fashion innovativeness is positively affected by sexual attraction, shopping for recreation, recognition enhancement, and aesthetic expression, and positively influences unplanned purchases. The link between fashion innovativeness and unplanned purchases is moderated by visual merchandising. This study also provides recommendations for retailers on increasing unplanned purchases in their stores using the concept of fashion innovativeness.     

Proactive versus reactive apparel brands in sustainability: Influences on brand loyalty

Building on the literature in brand loyalty and sustainable consumption of apparel, this study compares the loyalty formation mechanism between sustainable fashion and fast fashion brands. A series of hypotheses proposing the difference in the loyalty formation between the two types of apparel brands were developed. A structural equation modeling tested the research model with a sample of 556 U.S. respondents. Although somewhat inconsistent, the results suggest that consumers form brand loyalty toward sustainable versus fast fashion in a different manner. Implications for marketers as well as directions for future research are discussed.     

The fashion engagement grid: understanding men's responses to fashion advertising

This study examines how men who are interested in fashion interpret fashion advertisements. Data are garnered from interviews with adult men who regularly read fashion magazines and buy fashion clothing. Findings reveal that men process fashion advertisements through the same five modes as women. The current study also demonstrates that men's responses to fashion advertisements can be categorized through the Fashion Engagement Grid which examines men's characterizations of and motivations for fashion behavior. This study expands theoretical understandings of gender in advertising research and recommends advertising elements to attract male consumers.     

Ethical consumer behaviour in Germany: The attitude‐behaviour gap in the green apparel industry

In today's society, the trend of ethical consumerism is undeniable. Yet, even though consumers are ethically concerned, they rarely transform their intentions into a green purchasing behaviour—and this phenomenon is also evident in the sustainable fashion industry. This study aims to understand the prevailing attitude‐behaviour gap and explores the barriers that constrain consumers in purchasing green apparel. A total of 13 in‐depth interviews were conducted and analysed to the principles of grounded theory. The analysis reveals that the following barriers impede consumption of sustainable fashion: price, availability, knowledge, transparency, image, inertia and consumption habits. The impact of each dimension on consumers' purchase decisions might be of interest to apparel manufacturers and retailers who should implement strategies to encourage eco‐conscious apparel acquisition and focus on diminishing these barriers. Accordingly, three major recommendations are made: (a) to concentrate on specific product attributes; (b) to adopt an efficient digital communication strategy; and (c) to make a greater effort on making green apparel attainable. This study contributes to the overall understanding of consumer behaviour in the ethical fashion industry and examines in‐depth the purchasing criteria for sustainable fashion for consumers.     

The role of international hubs in a fashion retailer's sourcing strategy

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the role of international hubs in a fashion retailer's sourcing strategy. In order to compete more effectively in a dynamic fashion market, retailers have adopted a low cost, offshore sourcing model to supplying their domestic market. There are three approaches which have been used to implement an offshore sourcing strategy; direct sourcing from the HQ, the use of intermediaries and international hubs. The aims of the research were to understand the motives behind the development of international hubs, identify their stages of development and determine both their strategic and operational role within fashion companies' global strategies. Research was carried out through semi-structured interviews with the heads of 3 international hubs, one buying office and the head of merchandising at the HQ in the UK of a subsidiary of a major UK fashion chain. Results show that hubs evolve from buying offices to multifunctional units, specialising in supplying particular products to the market. Although hubs perform important operational functions, there was little intra hub coordination and the headquarters exerted considerable control over their hubs with regard to overall sourcing strategies.     

The fashion‐conscious behaviours of mature female consumers

Under‐appreciation of mature consumers as a numerous and comparatively wealthy market segment has resulted in not only lost revenues for business, but also lost consumption and service opportunities for the elderly. In response to expressed needs for more research into actual and desired consumption by older consumers, this study examined the apparel and shopping preferences of mature women in America. Independent living residents were surveyed concerning fashion consciousness, fashion information sources and shopping behaviours. Young and mature consumers’ reactions to female apparel ensembles were compared. Mature subjects purchased apparel for pleasure or need, but less for conformity. Decisions were influenced more by fit and comfort than by fashion, despite suggestions that dressing stylishly was important. New fashions were encountered via catalogue illustrations, social gatherings and window displays. Subjects high in fashion consciousness had greater financial and social involvement with fashion, greater chronological‐to‐cognitive age differences and larger clothing budgets. Young and mature consumers’ responses to apparel illustrations differed significantly. As the mature market expands, attention to age‐divergent definitions of fashion (such as those based upon admiration of comfort) will determine the success of apparel businesses. Assessment of cognitive age will facilitate identification of those mature consumers most predisposed toward fashion consumption.     

The antecedents of in-store hoarding: measurement and application in the fast fashion retail environment

This study raised scholarly inquiry about the construct of in-store hoarding and investigated the antecedents of in-store hoarding in the fast fashion retail environment. As the market becomes dynamic and volatile, more retailers are moving toward fast fashion by constantly delivering new products throughout the season. As a result, a product life span is dramatically reduced, thereby accelerating perishability of fashion items. Moreover, in order to make constant room for new products and minimize markdowns, fast fashion retailers deliberately limit product availability, creating a sense of scarcity on the part of consumers. Based on the literature review and one-to-one interviews, perceived perishability, scarcity and low price were identified as primary drivers of in-store hoarding. Overall, results from a field study supported the proposed model. However, the findings indicated that perceived perishability and scarcity were central to understanding in-store hoarding, whereas low-price perception was least important with a marginally significant effect on in-store hoarding. This study made a significant contribution to the consumer and retailing literature by introducing, defining, and operationalizing new constructs and new measurements, including scales for perceived perishability, perceived scarcity, and in-store hoarding. This study also provided many implications for practitioners in developing and implementing marketing and merchandising management strategies.     

Male eco‐fashion: a market reality

With the fashion industry striving for competitive advantage, eco‐fashions provide an opportunity to distinguish environmentally friendly products from other fashion products. However, the viability of these eco‐fashion brands is questionable. An exploratory study is conducted to explain men's differences, particularly, as clothing styles vary for men and women. The research examines if men's purchase intent would make a difference to the eco‐fashion industry. A random sample is collected to examine men's purchase intentions for eco‐clothing by product attributes, environmental concerns and sustainable behaviour. Partial least squares is used to empirically test the sample. A conceptual model is developed. It was found that there are four significant exogenous variables, environmental concern, sustainable pricing, sustainable behaviour and sustainable branding with a moderately strong, negatively signed coefficient path. Perceived consumer effectiveness and faith in others are not found to be significant moderators. This defined male segment makes several theoretical contributions as well as generating useful recommendations for marketing practitioners.     

An empirical study on Chinese adolescents' fashion involvement

Chinese adolescents are growing up with China's rapid economic growth and they represent the up and coming group of China's fashionistas. The aim of this study is to assess the effectiveness of consumer socialization on Chinese adolescents' fashion involvement. Using the data collected from 169 Chinese adolescents, the research provides empirical results about the impacts of different consumer socialization agents on Chinese adolescents' fashion involvement. The study results reveal the positive and significant impacts of fashion magazines, fashion websites and peers on Chinese adolescents' fashion involvement, but a negative and significant impact of Internet on adolescents' fashion involvement. In addition, parents and TV were found to have no significant impact on Chinese adolescents' fashion involvement. Such empirical research not only deepens our understanding of the nature and strength of the relationships between the consumer socialization agents and Chinese adolescents' fashion consumer behaviour, but also makes a meaningful contribution to improving the consumer socialization framework. We believe these findings will be useful to update current consumer socialization frameworks and make it more relevant and useful for studying the new generation of consumers in the emerging market context.     

How fashion cewebrity influences customer engagement behavior in emerging economy? Social network influence as moderator

Social media provides opportunities for individuals to become cewebrities by gaining fame via their presence on different platforms such as Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok. But, how cewebrities are engaging consumers is an under-developed research area that needs researchers' attention. Therefore, this research aims to determine the influence of fashion cewebrity on opinion leaders and customer engagement behaviors in the apparel fashion industry. Also, the moderating role of social networking influence in the relationship between opinion leadership and customer engagement is tested. The data was collected from 472 consumers following fashion cewebrities of five luxury apparel brands, and hypotheses were tested using structural equation modeling. The results confirmed the validity of the newly established scale of fashion cewebrity and endorsed the fashion cewebrity's impact on opinion leadership while opinion leadership mediates the fashion cewebrity – customer engagement behavior relationship. This study proposes that the managers should involve fashion cewebrities during all product development and promotion stages and establish collaboration to reap profit and create strong brand equity.     

An assessment of organic apparel,environmental beliefs and consumer preferences via fashion innovativeness

The topic of organic apparel has been widely discussed among academics and practitioners in recent years. While numerous studies have been done on the topic, few studies to date have assessed the topic of fashion innovativeness and its influence on attitudes towards organic apparel. In addition, an evaluation of consumer preferences for organic apparel from a conjoint analysis perspective has not been implemented. Thus, the purpose of the present study was to identify which organic apparel attributes are most important to high fashion innovativeness and low fashion innovativeness groups. Furthermore, the variables of environmental beliefs and attitudes towards purchasing organic apparel were assessed. An online survey was developed to measure the variables, including a full profile discrete choice design used to measure attribute preferences for t‐shirts. The data were analyzed using a multinomial logit model and desirability indices. The results indicated that the low fashion innovativeness group preferred organic and eco‐friendly apparel more than the high fashion innovativeness group. In addition, when examining high fashion innovativeness and low fashion innovativeness groups overall, the preferred t‐shirt was Dri‐Fit, Cotton Jersey Knit, Made In America, Eco‐Friendly and $25.00. However, when examining high fashion innovativeness and low fashion innovativeness groups separately for the preferred t‐shirt, differences appeared in Sustainable. The results suggest that high fashion innovativeness and low fashion innovativeness groups may desire different organic apparel attributes when considering organic apparel.     

Expanding opportunities in fashion merchandizing: a successful internship programme through an innovative collaboration with The National NeedleArts Association

Internships are an important part of education in an applied field such as consumer sciences. Within consumer sciences, coursework typical of a fashion merchandizing programme exposes students, often for the first time, to issues of fibre, yarn and textile structure as well as colour and design. While these topics expand student knowledge beyond apparel, students find it difficult to imagine careers outside of the typical fashion merchandizing framework, thus limiting their internship choices to apparel retailing. Most students are unaware of the art and craft markets, specifically the needlearts of knitting, crocheting, needlepoint, cross‐stitching and embroidery. In the United States and Canada alone, this market, which includes fibre and yarn designers and producers, suppliers and retailers, constitutes an $8.5 billion industry. In summer 2006, the University of Akron and The National NeedleArts Association (TNNA), a trade association, initiated a joint venture, coined Pathways into Professional Needlearts (PiPN), to familiarize and train students in the needlearts. During the pilot programme, 10 fashion merchandizing students attended TNNA's trade show, spent 2 weeks in intense needlearts training and completed 10‐week‐long internships. TNNA appealed to its members for internship positions, which were subsequently matched with students’ abilities and expectations. The positions, scattered throughout the United States and Canada, ranged from a summer camp for school‐aged children, a design house for specialty knits, a needlepoint boutique and design business, yarn designers and distributors, to a web site and e‐business to retail boutiques. Both hosts and students benefited from new, and ongoing, business relationships. The enthusiasm for PiPN prompted TNNA to sponsor a second class in 2007. The students reported that they easily transferred their traditional fashion course concepts to their new areas of interest. They were able to apply their knowledge of textile materials, construction techniques, fashion trends, market research and consumer behaviour to both their needlearts course and subsequent internship. Students not only learned the fundamentals of the needlearts, they also gained a new perspective on the possibilities of future careers. Equally important, they experienced the personal fulfilment of self‐expression through artistic media previously not attempted and the relevance of building a community through the needlearts. They also learned that in applying the traditional content of fashion merchandizing to a related industry, they could expand consumer choice by providing a different market perspective.     

Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: Entrepreneurial drivers,opportunities, and challenges

New and existing companies are looking for ways to thrive in a competitive environment with innovative business models while respecting society and avoiding actions that harm the planet. Trends such as circular economy, fair trade, lowsumerism, and sharing economy are some of the many emerging entrepreneurial approaches that address this issue, but there is still a gap between what theory argues and the levels of environmental and social sustainability realized when theory is put into practice. In fact, most research on the topic of sustainable business models is still exploratory and does not fully acknowledge these emerging approaches, whose definitions, boundaries, and defining characteristics are still somewhat vague. This study seeks to contribute to the understanding of the inner entrepreneurial dynamics of innovative sustainable business models. In particular, we focus on the fashion business, a resource-intensive industry in which opportunities to reduce environmental impacts and to innovate business models abound. The aim of our research is to investigate innovative business models in the fashion industry that have sustainability as their defining characteristic, especially in terms of value proposition. In order to do that, we combine a systematic review of the literature with empirical research comprised of six interviews with specialists in sustainability, business model innovation, and the fashion industry, along with eight case studies on innovative fashion startups we define as ‘born sustainable.’ As a result, we propose a synthesizing framework that discloses trends and drivers of innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry. We also highlight opportunities and challenges for researchers and entrepreneurs interested in this topic.     

Problems of large‐scale fashion designers in Accra,Ghana

A survey was conducted to investigate the problems faced by large‐scale fashion designers in Ghana. Data were analysed using the Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS). The problems the respondents encountered were manpower, economic, logistic and social. Additional training in fashion design outside Ghana and a high level of education were identified as assets in the export trade. Suggestions to the Ghanaian Government and other stake holders, to improve the fashion industry and thus enable the industry to contribute effectively to the realization of the economic goals outlined in ‘Ghana’s Vision 2020’ (development plan), are discussed.     

Exploring Japanese consumers’ cultural meanings and consumption of American fashion

The purpose of this research is to explore how Japanese consumers perceive American fashion and how this perception is related to the purchase of American fashion products based on Consumer Culture Theory. For this research, cultural meanings of American fashion in Japanese fashion market were collected and analyzed using a thematic analysis method through Japanese consumers’ online postings and discussions. Results showed Japanese consumers perceived American fashion to (1) be economical/causal and lack fashion sense, (2) have different fashion trends for celebrities and general population, and (3) be individualistic without obvious fashion trends. This research also found Japanese consumers preferred American fashion for four reasons: (1) preference for American casual fashion styles, (2) emulation of existing styles of American celebrities, (3) availability of styles and sizes for non-regular Japanese body size, and (4) unique fashion styles rare in the Japanese fashion market. On the other hand, Japanese consumers identified various reasons why they are reluctant to consume American fashion. Three reasons include (1) different styles, (2) different aesthetics views due to different body sizes, and (3) reluctance to conform to current American fashion styles in the Japanese fashion market.