SUBJECTIVE ASSESSMENT OF FABRIC COMFORT BY SENSORY HAND

Current economic pressure and high energy cost brought about consumer demands for functional qualities from textile products they purchase. Fabrics are styled in a wide range of tactile and physical properties to meet consumer wants. This study investigated subjective and objective assessment of comfort properties of blouse fabrics which represent various fibre content and fabric structure. Subjective ratings showed that blend and natural fibres were preferred to man-made for all comfort attributes except smoothness and woven was chosen over knit for smoothness, thickness, and openness. Spearman correlation between subjective rating and objective measurements showed good association for warmth and absorbency but the dearth of relationship for openness, smoothness, and thickness. This may indicate the panel's acceptance of both polar opposites of those hand attributes for blouse fabrics. Multiple regression analyses showed that five subjective attributes entered contributed 47.9% to overall comfort variability, whereas five objective properties chosen explained 53.2% of overall comfort ratings.     

Biotechnology in the textile/clothing industry – a review

Summary: This paper focuses on the use of biotechnology in the textile/clothing industry by identifying where and how such processes are already established and considers the latest developments, either in the research stage or in the early stages of commercialization. It has been found that biotechnology systems are already well known to those involved in fabric preparation, particularly as regards desizing. Enzymes used in detergent formulations have also been successfully used for the past 30–40 years. Most recent commercial advances have been in fabric finishing processes where handle modifications to cotton fabrics in particular are fast becoming established. Cutting-edge research falls in the areas of fibre modification and the generation of new fibres from natural sources, such as natural polyester from bacteria. The isolation of DNA from the shaft of hair fibres and the encoding of detectable specific antigens to designer labels is providing new ways of helping to combat fraud and counterfeit in the fashion trade. The treatment of textile effluent continues to be a major problem to the industry, but here, biotechnological developments in other industries are helping to provide some answers.     

The effectiveness of selected barrier fabrics in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage

A relatively inexpensive method for the temporary or permanent storage of textile objects is to place them inside fabric covers (e.g. rolled storage and garment-bag storage), under fabric covers (e.g. flat storage), or behind fabric curtains (e.g. hanger storage behind a curtain). These barrier fabrics can minimize the harmful effects of light on textile objects in storage. This exploratory study examined the effectiveness of muslin, duck, and Gore-Tex^TM barrier fabrics in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage. The results indicated that muslin, duck, and Gore-Tex^TM barrier fabrics significantly differ in their effectiveness in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage. Several recommendations are provided for future investigations on this topic.     

Consumers' selection of textile products made from recycled fibres

The purpose of this study was to evaluate consumers' selection patterns of textile products made from recycled fibres. A quasi-experimental design was used. The 125 undergraduate students who participated in the study evaluated six identical sweatshirts and six identical carpet samples that were labelled with two manipulated information cues, price and fibre content. Chi-square tests of independence were calculated to determine if there was a significant relationship between wearing apparel choice and home textile product choice when both price and fibre content were manipulated and when price was controlled and fibre content manipulated. The data indicated that when both price and fibre content were manipulated, over half of the subjects selected the lower priced sweatshirt and lower priced carpet regardless of fibre content. If a consumer selected a lower priced wearing apparel product s/he also selected a lower priced home textile product. When the price and fibre content were controlled, 66% of the respondents selected the sweatshirt labelled recycled polyester and 62% selected the recycled carpet. In addition, a consumer who selected a recycled wearing apparel product also selected a recycled home textile product. Results suggest that apparel and home textile products made from recycled fibres will be sellable if priced competitively with products made from virgin fibres.     

EFFECT OF FIBRE CONTENT AND METHOD OF APPLICATION OF SELECTED INTERFACINGS ON PERFORMANCE OF GARMENTS AFTER REPEATED LAUNDERING

The purpose of the study was to investigate the effect of fibre content and method of application of selected interfacing fabrics on appearance of garments after repeated laundering. Experimental fabrics were three interfacings of 100% polyester sew-in, 100% rayon and 100% polyester fusible, and two white fashion fabrics of polyester/cotton durable press treated and 100% cotton. Thirty blouses were constructed and divided into six groups representing six combinations of fashion and interfacing fabrics. Evaluation methods included appearance, dimensional stability and stiffness. Data were statistically analysed using t tests and Pearson rank order correlation coefficient. Results showed that method of applying interfacing fabrics had a significant effect on appearance of the combined fashion and interfacing fabrics. Sew-in method resulted in satisfactory appearance throughout repeated laundering for polyester/cotton DP fabric. Deterioration of adhesive resin of fusible interfacings in the laundering process resulted in significant shrinkage and poor appearance. Also, relationship was found between per cent shrinkage and appearance ratings indicating that as per cent shrinkage increased, appearance ratings decreased. Effect of fibre content of interfacings on appearance was not significant. However, interfacing fabrics were found to be the major contributor to shrinkage of composite fabric and not the fashion fabrics. Poor appearance of fusible interfacings was related also to per cent loss of stiffness.     

FABRIC APPEARANCE AND HANDLE

Consumer judgment of the quality of a fabric depends on appearance and handle and in this paper factors such as fibre content, fabric construction, finish and illumination which influence these parameters are discussed in detail. The rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics are also considered and statistical procedures used for rating subjective assessments are described.     

The effects of skirt lining properties on comfort and movement

This study was conducted to clarify the influences of the lining properties of skirts upon comfort and movement. The comfort of lining fabrics and real skirts with and without lining was rated by sensory tests on the basis of sensorial comfort on the skin and body movement. Actual body movements were investigated by motion analysis while the skirts were being worn. The results are described: (1) Comfort on the skin, movement and overall preference for the lining fabrics were evaluated by sensory testing, comparing skirts made with five kinds of lining fabrics. Conventional non‐stretch cupro lining was ranked first on the basis of smoothness and good feel to the skin. Two‐way stretch lining was also ranked highly in terms of ease of movement. We discuss how sensorial comfort on the skin and ease of movement related to overall preference for lining fabrics. (2) Sensory test of the actual skirts with and without lining clearly confirmed that lining played a role in improving comfort. (3) For a non‐stretch fabric skirt, conventional lining was ranked highly for good feel to the skin, and two‐way stretch lining was considered useful for ease of movement. There was no significant difference between the two lining fabrics in overall preference. (4) For a stretch fabric skirt, stretch lining is the most useful because it maintains easy extension of the outer fabric, thus allowing ease of body movement. (5) Motion analysis showed that a combination of knitted stretch skirts with stretch lining was the best for ease of movement. Comparing the sidelines and the hemline of the stretch fabric skirts demonstrated a better shape using lining.     

WEAR OF TEXTILES

The factors which influence wear in textiles are considered in detail in this paper and relevant mechanical properties are defined. The relative importance of fibre properties, fabric construction and finishing treatments in abrasion resistance, pilling and snagging are discussed and laboratory and field tests for garments and carpets are compared.     

脱胶亚麻纤维与接枝共聚物理化性能研究

探索改变麻纤维理化性能的化学方法。结果发现对苎麻，需将全部非纤维素的植物附生物去除后方能取得纺织工业用的原料；而对亚麻、大麻等只有采用半脱胶方法才可取得纺织工业的原料。本试验着重就“接枝变性”，以红外线吸收光谱图和电子扫描显微镜图等对麻条纤维与接枝亚麻纤维的理化性能进行分析，表明“接枝变性”的可能性和价值。     

The use of repertory grid techniques in the evaluation of fabric handle

The reproducibility of a repertory grid for the evaluation of fabric handle was investigated by means of consumer responses to a series of fabrics. The consumer panel evaluated the same fabrics on three separate occasions. On the first and third occasion, the fabrics were seen and on the second occasion unseen. Correlations at high levels of significance were generally found between results obtained on each occasion. This was particularly true of the two seen tests.     

An investigation into the effects of domestic cleaning on upholstery covering materials backcoated with fire retardants

Abstract: The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of domestic cleaning on upholstery covering materials backcoated with fire retardants. The results are an indicator of the effectiveness of legislative controls for upholstery. A questionnaire and pilot study were used to devise standard treatment procedures reflecting popular domestic cleaning methods. Samples of material were subjected to each treatment procedure followed by testing to the match test in BS 5852:Pt 1: 1979, over filling material specified in Part 1 of Schedule 5 of the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988. To provide a standard, materials were also subjected to the water soak procedure in BS 5651: 1978, followed by testing to the match test. The results indicate that domestic cleaning methods affect backcoated fire retardants in such a way that current furniture legislation does not adequately provide for the level of durability required in practice. In addition, evidence was gained via a retail survey which suggests that consumers are not provided with sufficient aftercare information when purchasing new furniture.     

A flammability hazard rating and index for women's apparel

Women's garments and the fabrics therein were analysed and characterized. Garments were grouped into garment assemblies, 60 of which were burned on Minnesota Woman, a thermally-instrumented mannequin. Second and third degree burn injuries were calculated using Henriques' tissue damage factor. From 0 to 90% of the mannequin surface area equipped with sensors received second or third degree burn injury. A hazard index was developed based on degree of injury and the speed with which the injury occurred. Fabric and garment parameters found to be of importance in determining the hazard deduced from the mannequin tests were fabric weight, fibre content, and garment type and fit. A hazard rating was developed based on these parameters. Comparison of the hazard rating and the hazard index values indicated that this must be considered to be an exploratory, first stage attempt to develop a relatively simple method for rating the flammability hazard of apparel.     

Perceptions of fibre types: a cross-cultural study into the effects of textile education

Abstract The study used semantic differential grids generated by consumers to compare perceptions of silk, cotton, nylon and polyester for use in (a) sportshirts and (b) ladies' slips. Student groups in the UK and Canada were surveyed both before and after an introductory course in textiles. Silk was the most preferred fibre for slips, and cotton for sportshirts. In general, the synthetic fibres and in particular nylon were viewed with disfavour. Both sets of student responses were broadly similar, although the degree of agreement was less strong than that found between English and Australian students in a comparable study. Perceptions remained relatively unchanged after a unit of textiles. The results of this work raise issues about the generally negative perceptions of synthetic fibres, which contrasts strongly with their current high level of use in clothing.     

THE EFFECT OF DETERGENT TYPE AND LAUNDERING TEMPERATURE ON THE SOIL REMOVAL AND SOIL REDEPOSITION PERFORMANCE OF COTTON AND P/C BLENDS WITH AND WITHOUT DURABLE PRESS FINISH

Three soiled test cloths of cotton and 65/35% Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish were subjected to twenty-five repeated launderings in Launder-Ometer to determine the effect of fabric type, wash temperature, and laundering interval on the soil removal and soil redeposition performance. The reflectance of the test fabrics as measured by a Hunter Lab D-40 reflectometer and the amount of soil removed and redeposited was computed in reflectance unit (RU) expressing the difference in reflectance of the test samples before and after washing. Soil removal and redeposition performances were significantly influenced by fabric type, detergent type, and laundering interval. Duncan's multiple range test indicated that Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish retained and redeposited significantly less soil than cotton. Powder detergents cleaned test fabrics better than liquid detergents. Highly significant correlations between soil removal and redeposition RU and whiteness measurements were found. Therefore, both computations serve as reliable methods to evaluate soil removal and redeposition performance.     

Consumer willingness to pay for sustainable apparel: the influence of labelling for fibre origin and production methods

This study of value‐based labelling for apparel products examined consumer willingness to pay (WTP) for three credence attributes of fibre: origin, type and production method. Experimental auctions were conducted with student subjects in Texas and used socks made from cotton and polylactic acid (PLA), a fibre manufactured from corn. The bid results of two rounds were compared. The first round was conducted without information about the credence attributes of the socks. The second round included varying levels of three types of attributes: fibre origin (imported, US and Texas), fibre type (cotton and corn) and production method [conventional, organic and non‐genetically modified (GM)]. Tobit regression analysis was performed using the attributes and subject demographics to determine consumer WTP for the various attribute levels and to profile consumers with interest in the attributes. In terms of origin, results show that participants were willing to pay a premium for socks with fibres produced in Texas, but not for those produced in the US. Fibre type mattered, with participants requiring a discount once they learned that socks were made with PLA fibre. The greatest premium ($1.86) was placed on socks labelled as organic, slightly more than the premium for socks labelled as non‐GM. The results also indicate that women were less willing to pay for US fibres than men, and Hispanics were less willing to pay for organic or non‐GM fibre production. A key finding of this study is that consumers value information about the local origin of fibres. The premium for organic fibres is not unexpected, given the success of the organic apparel market, but the premium on non‐GM fibres suggests that sustainable production systems that are not organic may be successful if they emphasize other attributes such as local or non‐GM.     

FABRIC SPECIALITY STORES: CONSUMER DISSATISFACTION WITH SELECTED IN-STORE ATTRIBUTES

This consumer dissatisfaction study focused on selected in-store attributes of the fabric speciality store. The procedure was to select fifteen fabric speciality stores at random in the Phoenix area and distribute thirty questionnaires to customers at each store. The 264 returns were analysed by examining the respondents' comments about the fabric speciality store most often shopped in, the respondents' ratings of the statements concerning the average fabric speciality store's attributes and the complaints the respondents made to fabric speciality stores. The fabric speciality store attributes found to be both important and dissatisfying included: salesperson's helpfulness, variety of fabrics, quality of fabrics, salesperson's product knowledge and fabric price.     

Fabric speciality stores: travel behaviour of female customers

This consumer travel behaviour study examined (i) the distance female customers travel from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shop in, and (ii) the effects of selected factors on the travel behaviour of these customers. The procedure was to select 10 fabric speciality stores at random in the Phoenix (Arizona) metropolitan area and have 25 female customers complete the questionnaire at each store. The 250 questionnaires were analysed by examining the distances the respondents travelled in various situations and by chi-square tests to determine the relationships among the variables. The results indicated that the majority of respondents travelled 3 miles or less (oneway) from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shopped in; however, the actual number of miles travelled in this situation was found to be dependent on the respondents' level of education. It was also found that many respondents were willing to travel farther than the distance from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shopped in to (i) purchase a specific fabric; or (ii) seek a greater variety of fabrics and related items, lower fabric prices and helpful/knowledgeable salespeople.     

集装袋老化力学性能试验研究及其灰色预测

考虑粮食集装袋不同的使用环境，通过老化试验对集装袋的老化行为进行研究，探讨了自然暴露和不同温度条件对集装袋性能的影响。结果表明，随着老化时间的增加，集装袋基布的抗拉强度、断裂伸长率下降。自然暴露对基材性能的影响最为显著，高温环境下次之，低温环境下最不显著。基布的抗老化性能与气候条件的变化密切相关，随着温度的升高、光照强度增强，基布老化加剧。同时，基于灰色预测理论，对集装袋横向基布自然老化力学性能进行预测，预测结果精度较高。     

Comparative analysis of synthetic fibres for marine rope

Abstract The applicability of ropes in marine situations may be investigated by attempting to match the conditions of use with the properties of fibres. Five commonly used fibres (nylon, polyester, polypropylene, Kevlar and Spectra) are examined in this paper. Properties important enough to be taken into account are strength (dry and wet), weight, elongation, abrasion resistance, sunlight degradation, exposure to sea-water components and cost. It is clear that all five fibre types have advantages and drawbacks, and that the one with the optimum ratio of performance at minimum cost is nylon. Under specific conditions of use, however, each of them may be preferred, and the recommended approach is to examine the conditions under which a rope will be used. By comparing these conditions with the specific properties of each fibre type, it is possible to decide the one that best fits the intended end-use. The possibility of choosing blends to provide an enhanced performance is also available.