Relationship of wash/rinse water temperatures to soil removal

Samples of cotton, polyester and nylon fabrics were soiled by application of synthetic sebum and clay and then laundered at various combinations of hot, warm and cold wash and rinse water temperatures. The temperature of the rinse water did not affect the amount of soil removed from the fabrics. More soil was generally removed with hot wash water than with warm or cold water. The soil was more readily removed from the nylon than from the cotton or polyester fabrics. All wash/rinse treatments removed soil to a level that would probably be acceptable to most consumers.     

EFFECT OF FIBRE CONTENT AND METHOD OF APPLICATION OF SELECTED INTERFACINGS ON PERFORMANCE OF GARMENTS AFTER REPEATED LAUNDERING

The purpose of the study was to investigate the effect of fibre content and method of application of selected interfacing fabrics on appearance of garments after repeated laundering. Experimental fabrics were three interfacings of 100% polyester sew-in, 100% rayon and 100% polyester fusible, and two white fashion fabrics of polyester/cotton durable press treated and 100% cotton. Thirty blouses were constructed and divided into six groups representing six combinations of fashion and interfacing fabrics. Evaluation methods included appearance, dimensional stability and stiffness. Data were statistically analysed using t tests and Pearson rank order correlation coefficient. Results showed that method of applying interfacing fabrics had a significant effect on appearance of the combined fashion and interfacing fabrics. Sew-in method resulted in satisfactory appearance throughout repeated laundering for polyester/cotton DP fabric. Deterioration of adhesive resin of fusible interfacings in the laundering process resulted in significant shrinkage and poor appearance. Also, relationship was found between per cent shrinkage and appearance ratings indicating that as per cent shrinkage increased, appearance ratings decreased. Effect of fibre content of interfacings on appearance was not significant. However, interfacing fabrics were found to be the major contributor to shrinkage of composite fabric and not the fashion fabrics. Poor appearance of fusible interfacings was related also to per cent loss of stiffness.     

The use of repertory grid techniques in the evaluation of fabric handle

The reproducibility of a repertory grid for the evaluation of fabric handle was investigated by means of consumer responses to a series of fabrics. The consumer panel evaluated the same fabrics on three separate occasions. On the first and third occasion, the fabrics were seen and on the second occasion unseen. Correlations at high levels of significance were generally found between results obtained on each occasion. This was particularly true of the two seen tests.     

THE EFFECT OF DETERGENT TYPE AND LAUNDERING TEMPERATURE ON THE SOIL REMOVAL AND SOIL REDEPOSITION PERFORMANCE OF COTTON AND P/C BLENDS WITH AND WITHOUT DURABLE PRESS FINISH

Three soiled test cloths of cotton and 65/35% Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish were subjected to twenty-five repeated launderings in Launder-Ometer to determine the effect of fabric type, wash temperature, and laundering interval on the soil removal and soil redeposition performance. The reflectance of the test fabrics as measured by a Hunter Lab D-40 reflectometer and the amount of soil removed and redeposited was computed in reflectance unit (RU) expressing the difference in reflectance of the test samples before and after washing. Soil removal and redeposition performances were significantly influenced by fabric type, detergent type, and laundering interval. Duncan's multiple range test indicated that Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish retained and redeposited significantly less soil than cotton. Powder detergents cleaned test fabrics better than liquid detergents. Highly significant correlations between soil removal and redeposition RU and whiteness measurements were found. Therefore, both computations serve as reliable methods to evaluate soil removal and redeposition performance.     

Bacterial survival on fabrics laundered in cold water

The effect of detergent formulation and fabric type on bacterial survival after home laundering in cold water was investigated. Three fabrics, 65/35 polyester/cotton shirting, 100% cotton sheeting, and 100% cotton terry cloth, were inoculated with Staphylococcus aureus, laundered in cold 60 ± 5°F (16 ± 3°C) water and machine dried. Eight phosphorus-based powders and non-phosphorus detergents in both powder and liquid form were used. A control with no detergent was used. Percent reduction in bacteria after machine washing and after machine drying were determined. Of the eight detergents studied, only two effectively removed 100% of the bacteria from the cotton terry cloth after washing. These were sodium carbonate and aluminosilicate-based powders, one of which contained sodium perborate, the other included enzymes. All of the detergents used removed > 97% of bacteria from the polyester/cotton shirting and cotton sheeting fabrics. No significant cross contamination occurred with any fabric. A greater percent reduction of bacteria was obtained with the terry cloth samples after washing and tumble drying than after washing alone. The implications of the study are important for consumers who are using colder water in the laundering process. This study found that bacteria were removed more easily from the two plain weave fabrics than the looped terry cloth fabric. The effectiveness of tumble drying after cold water laundering to reduce bacteria in the terry cloth towelling was an important finding.     

FABRIC APPEARANCE AND HANDLE

Consumer judgment of the quality of a fabric depends on appearance and handle and in this paper factors such as fibre content, fabric construction, finish and illumination which influence these parameters are discussed in detail. The rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics are also considered and statistical procedures used for rating subjective assessments are described.     

Biotechnology in the textile/clothing industry – a review

Summary: This paper focuses on the use of biotechnology in the textile/clothing industry by identifying where and how such processes are already established and considers the latest developments, either in the research stage or in the early stages of commercialization. It has been found that biotechnology systems are already well known to those involved in fabric preparation, particularly as regards desizing. Enzymes used in detergent formulations have also been successfully used for the past 30–40 years. Most recent commercial advances have been in fabric finishing processes where handle modifications to cotton fabrics in particular are fast becoming established. Cutting-edge research falls in the areas of fibre modification and the generation of new fibres from natural sources, such as natural polyester from bacteria. The isolation of DNA from the shaft of hair fibres and the encoding of detectable specific antigens to designer labels is providing new ways of helping to combat fraud and counterfeit in the fashion trade. The treatment of textile effluent continues to be a major problem to the industry, but here, biotechnological developments in other industries are helping to provide some answers.     

PILE UPHOLSTERY FABRICS–CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS AND ABRASION RESISTANCE

Pile fabrics are currently enjoying a renewed popularity. They are not only an important upholstery fabric but also are gaining importance in other textile end-uses such as apparel, footwear, toys and accessories. Pile fabrics are made in both natural and synthetic fibres as well as natural and synthetic fibre blends. The study was an attempt to develop a procedure to evaluate the physical properties of pile fabrics to determine their suitability for specific end-uses. The study defined and tested different pile fabric samples which were representative of the 1979 interior textile fabric lines. Six pile fabrics, each with different fibre contents were subjected to seven separate tests and the results reported. The tests included fibre identification, fabric weight determination, fabric thickness determination, breaking load determination, tearing strength determination, and abrasion resistance determination. The results found that pile upholstery fabrics of different generic fibres performed differently when subjected to physical testing. The results obtained from the physical properties tests gave results which can be used to compare pile fabrics of different generic fibre content.     

FABRIC SPECIALITY STORES: CONSUMER DISSATISFACTION WITH SELECTED IN-STORE ATTRIBUTES

This consumer dissatisfaction study focused on selected in-store attributes of the fabric speciality store. The procedure was to select fifteen fabric speciality stores at random in the Phoenix area and distribute thirty questionnaires to customers at each store. The 264 returns were analysed by examining the respondents' comments about the fabric speciality store most often shopped in, the respondents' ratings of the statements concerning the average fabric speciality store's attributes and the complaints the respondents made to fabric speciality stores. The fabric speciality store attributes found to be both important and dissatisfying included: salesperson's helpfulness, variety of fabrics, quality of fabrics, salesperson's product knowledge and fabric price.     

The effects of skirt lining properties on comfort and movement

This study was conducted to clarify the influences of the lining properties of skirts upon comfort and movement. The comfort of lining fabrics and real skirts with and without lining was rated by sensory tests on the basis of sensorial comfort on the skin and body movement. Actual body movements were investigated by motion analysis while the skirts were being worn. The results are described: (1) Comfort on the skin, movement and overall preference for the lining fabrics were evaluated by sensory testing, comparing skirts made with five kinds of lining fabrics. Conventional non‐stretch cupro lining was ranked first on the basis of smoothness and good feel to the skin. Two‐way stretch lining was also ranked highly in terms of ease of movement. We discuss how sensorial comfort on the skin and ease of movement related to overall preference for lining fabrics. (2) Sensory test of the actual skirts with and without lining clearly confirmed that lining played a role in improving comfort. (3) For a non‐stretch fabric skirt, conventional lining was ranked highly for good feel to the skin, and two‐way stretch lining was considered useful for ease of movement. There was no significant difference between the two lining fabrics in overall preference. (4) For a stretch fabric skirt, stretch lining is the most useful because it maintains easy extension of the outer fabric, thus allowing ease of body movement. (5) Motion analysis showed that a combination of knitted stretch skirts with stretch lining was the best for ease of movement. Comparing the sidelines and the hemline of the stretch fabric skirts demonstrated a better shape using lining.     

The effectiveness of selected barrier fabrics in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage

A relatively inexpensive method for the temporary or permanent storage of textile objects is to place them inside fabric covers (e.g. rolled storage and garment-bag storage), under fabric covers (e.g. flat storage), or behind fabric curtains (e.g. hanger storage behind a curtain). These barrier fabrics can minimize the harmful effects of light on textile objects in storage. This exploratory study examined the effectiveness of muslin, duck, and Gore-Tex^TM barrier fabrics in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage. The results indicated that muslin, duck, and Gore-Tex^TM barrier fabrics significantly differ in their effectiveness in minimizing the light-induced colour change of textile objects in storage. Several recommendations are provided for future investigations on this topic.     

The effect of sunlight on the colour of Ghanaian cotton printed fabrics

Abstract In a 3·2·2 factorial experiment in three replicates, Ghanaian cotton prints (Real Wax, Real Java, Batik) were studied. Specimens were hand washed in soap solution, rinsed in clean water and dried in shade or sunlight twice a week for 3 weeks. Unwashed specimens were similarly sun-dried or aired. All specimens were exposed to a total of 42 h in the sun or shade. Colour loss was measured by means of a grey scale. The specimens lost significantly more colour (P < 0·01) when dried in the sun (3·96) than when dried in the shade (4·09). Irrespective of the drying method, washed fabrics lost significantly more colour (P<0·01) (3·96) than unwashed ones (4·09). There was no significant interaction effect (P > 0·01) between method of drying and fabric type. However, there was a significant interaction (P<0·01) between fabric type and washing or airing. The grey scale mean for washing was 4·03 for Wax, 3·81 for Batik and 3·75 for Java. For airing, Batik, Wax and Java had means of 4·22, 4·19 and 4·17 respectively. Thus, Real Wax was the most stable when washed, whereas Batik was the most stable to airing. It is suggested that drying or airing of these fabrics be performed in the shade to preserve their colour.     

China Textile and Apparel Exp. $51.44 Billion in the First Half Year

Reported by China Customs and the Statistic Center of China Textile Industry . Council, through Jan.-June, 2005., Chinatotal imp. ＆ exp. value of textile and apparel reached US$59.602 billion, increasing 17.82% compared with the same period of last year, and taking up 9.24% of China gross imp.＆ exp. value of foreign trade. Gross export value of textile and apparel in China was up to US$51.436 billion, increasing 20.75% compared with the same period of last year,     

Comparative performance of polyester,polypropylene and chlorofibre thermal fabrics in simulated consumer use

Polyester, polypropylene, chlorofibre/acrylic and polypropylene/acrylic/wool thermal fabrics were compared for water absorption/wicking, pilling and relaxation following elongation. The polypropylene fabrics did not absorb water. Wicking was related to the mass of all but the polypropylene/acrylic/wool fabric, which had a structure unlike that of any of the other fabrics. The polypropylene/acrylic/wool blend had the optimal resistance to pilling, least dimensional change in laundering and negligible growth after elongation.     

Perceptions of fibre types: a cross-cultural study into the effects of textile education

Abstract The study used semantic differential grids generated by consumers to compare perceptions of silk, cotton, nylon and polyester for use in (a) sportshirts and (b) ladies' slips. Student groups in the UK and Canada were surveyed both before and after an introductory course in textiles. Silk was the most preferred fibre for slips, and cotton for sportshirts. In general, the synthetic fibres and in particular nylon were viewed with disfavour. Both sets of student responses were broadly similar, although the degree of agreement was less strong than that found between English and Australian students in a comparable study. Perceptions remained relatively unchanged after a unit of textiles. The results of this work raise issues about the generally negative perceptions of synthetic fibres, which contrasts strongly with their current high level of use in clothing.     

The effect of detergents on fabric handle

The effect of detergent products on fabric handle was investigated by means of consumer responses. The use of a semantic differential grid enabled responses to be compared to an ‘Ideal’ handle. Differences were obtained between the products and evidence was obtained which suggests that the judgements on the semantic differential grid provide a valid estimate of the way people make judgements about the overall handle of towels.     

An assessment of the effect of fabric conditioner in the final rinse

An objective and subjective assessment of sample fabrics is made from pre-wash through to wash and use of a fabric conditioner in order to determine the physical handling measurements which can be used to assess the perceived output quality from these processes.     

An investigation into women's perceptions of fibre types used for holiday clothes to be worn in hot climates

When clothes are taken on a summer holiday in a hot climate, their performance properties may become particularly important. The purpose of this research was to determine women's fibre preferences for holiday clothes and to discover the perceptions underlying those preferences. Results showed a strong preference for cotton and an extreme dislike of nylon. There was a tendency to regard all man-made fibres with disfavour, with perceptions founded primarily on past unfavourable experiences of nylon only.     

Fabric speciality stores: travel behaviour of female customers

This consumer travel behaviour study examined (i) the distance female customers travel from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shop in, and (ii) the effects of selected factors on the travel behaviour of these customers. The procedure was to select 10 fabric speciality stores at random in the Phoenix (Arizona) metropolitan area and have 25 female customers complete the questionnaire at each store. The 250 questionnaires were analysed by examining the distances the respondents travelled in various situations and by chi-square tests to determine the relationships among the variables. The results indicated that the majority of respondents travelled 3 miles or less (oneway) from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shopped in; however, the actual number of miles travelled in this situation was found to be dependent on the respondents' level of education. It was also found that many respondents were willing to travel farther than the distance from their home to the fabric speciality store they most often shopped in to (i) purchase a specific fabric; or (ii) seek a greater variety of fabrics and related items, lower fabric prices and helpful/knowledgeable salespeople.     

高温灰化法检测金属丝面料中金属丝含量

金属丝面料作为新型功能性面料是目前市场上较流行的一款高附加值的面料,一般同等技术水平下,金属丝占的比例越高价格越贵。目前常用的检测手段主要是手工拆分,虽准确但耗时长,效率低,通过建立高温灰化法检测金属丝含量,一次可以处理多个样品,且与手工拆分法有着同样的准确度,精密度也良好,是一个可以广泛应用的检测方法。