WAVE INTERACTION WITH PERFORATED CAISSON BREAKWATERS

The reflection coefficient of perforated caissons and the total horizontal forces acting on them were experimentally and numerically analyzed and discussed when wave propagates normally. To consider the viscosity effect of fluid and nonlinear action of waves on structures, the VOF (Volume Of Fluid) method combined with the k-ε turbulence model was used to simulate the interaction between waves and structures. Governing equations were solved with the finite difference method. Through 2D experimental study in the wave flume, the empirical relationship between the reflection coefficient of perforated caissons and the main affecting factors were obtained from the experimental data using the least square method. Also the correlation between the ratio of the total horizontal force acting on perforated caisson and the force acting on solid caisson and the main affecting factors were regressed from the experimental data.     

《难经》压力波参数初探

根据压力波理论，分析了《难经》脉状的参数，演绎了主要参数的特征曲线，这对推进中医切诊医术的现代化具有现实意义。     

HYDRODYNAMIC FORCE ON SMOOTH HORIZONTAL CYLINDER IN UNIFORM OSCILLATORY FLOW

ＨＹＤＲＯＤＹＮＡＭＩＣ　ＦＯＲＣＥ　ＯＮ　ＳＭＯＯＴＨ　ＨＯＲＩＺＯＮＴＡＬ　ＣＹＬＩＮＤＥＲ　ＩＮ　ＵＮＩＦＯＲＭ　ＯＳＣＩＬＬＡＴＯＲＹ　ＦＬＯＷＨＹＤＲＯＤＹＮＡＭＩＣＦＯＲＣＥＯＮＳＭＯＯＴＨＨＯＲＩＺＯＮＴＡＬＣＹＬＩＮＤＥＲＩＮＵＮＩＦ...     

结构-波浪-海床耦合系统中大圆筒结构的波压力响应

以沉入式大圆筒结构为对象，通过设计随机波浪水槽实验，测取了在单筒和连续筒两种结构型式、两种沉入深度和两种波谱输入下结构表面的动波压力分布。波面高度以及波压力历程均在领域进行分析。通过计算结构表面沿高程和沿环向的波压力谱及波压力传递函数，将单筒实测结果与基于线性绕射理论的解析解进行了比较，同时也详细对比了两种结构型式下的实测结果。文中汇报了在研究中获得的新发现及进行的相应分析，特别是在结构——波浪——海床动力相互作用下对波压力响应机理以及针对连续筒的研究，可为工程应用提供有价值的参考。     

部分可渗透直立圆柱的消波作用研究

本文导出了线性波浪作用于上部可渗透的直立刚性圆柱体上的水动力的解析解。在线性有势流的假定下，用特征函数展开方法求出了内部和外部流场的解。给出了不同波浪要素及结构尺寸参数下的数值结果。由结果可知，提高可渗透性可以有效消减波幅。     

Effects of plant community composition and exposure to wave action on invertebrate habitat use of Lake Huron coastal wetlands

Invertebrate communities from different coastal marsh‐plant communities were compared along wave‐exposure gradients using data from 1994, 1998 and 1999. Data were subjected to correspondence analyses to search for patterns in invertebrate communities in relation to plant‐community structure and wave exposure. In 1994, quantitative plant‐ and sediment‐invertebrate samples were taken from nine habitats: four from inland, subsurface‐connected marshes and five from littoral, emergent marshes. In 1998, sweep‐net samples were taken from 13 plant communities: six on the exposed and seven on the protected side of an island. In 1999, 2–3 plant communities/sites were sampled with sweep nets from four sites around the Bay so that intersite differences between inner, less‐exposed and outer, more‐exposed habitats could be examined. In all three studies, correspondence analyses separated inland, protected or inner sites from littoral, exposed or outer sites, suggesting differences in invertebrate‐community structure. For example, Hydracarina and Asellidae occurred in large numbers in inland sites, but were less common or absent from exposed, littoral sites. Littoral marshes also separated along an exposure gradient with Tanytarsini and Orthocladiinae collectors of organic particles occurring in very high numbers in outer, exposed areas where organic particles from the pelagic zone entered the marsh. Certain plant‐community types clustered together (e.g. wet meadow and Scirpus) while others, such as Typha, stands clustered according to exposure to waves suggesting the importance of both plant‐community structure and wave exposure in determining invertebrate‐community structure. We present a conceptual model that suggests that invertebrates in Great Lakes' marshes are distributed along gradients of decreased mixing of pelagic water and increases in sediment organic matter from outer to inner marsh and between littoral and adjacent inland marshes. Some invertebrates do best on one end of these gradients, while the majority are generalists found across habitat types.     

THE SIMULATION OF THE SAR IMAGE OF INTERNAL SOLITARY WAVES IN ALBORAN SEA

1 .　ＩＮＴＲＯＤＵＣＴＩＯＮＯｃｅａｎｉｎｔｅｒｎａｌｗａｖｅｉｓａｋｉｎｄｏｆｇｒａｖｉｔｙｗａｖｅｇｅｎｅｒａｔｅｄｉｎｔｈｅｓｔｒａｔｉｆｉｅｄｏｃｅａｎ .Ｉｔｐｒｏｄｕｃｅｂｙｔｈｅｉｎｔｅｒａｃｔｉｏｎｏｆｔｉｄｅｃｕｒｒｅｎｔａｎｄｔｏｐｏｇｒａｐｈｙ ,ｓｅａｑｕａｋｅａｎｄｍｏｖｉｎｇｓｈｉｐｗｈｅｎｔｈｅｓｔｒｏｎｇ ,ｓｈａｌｌｏｗｐｙｃｎｏｃｌｉｎｅｉｓ ｐｒｅｓｅｎｔ.Ｔｈｅｉｎｔｅｒｎａｌｗａｖｅｓｉｎｔｈｅｃｏｎｔｉｎｅｎｔａｌｓｈｅｌｆａｒｅａｌｍｏｓｔｔｉｄｅｐｒｏｄ…     

推进波作用下的底泥起动

在介绍推进波作用下底泥起动特点的基础上，将上层水体作为粘性流体，底泥作为粘弹性体，推导了推进波作用下泥床面剪应力的表达式，并根据试验结果，给出了推进波作用下底泥起动时的床面剪应力与底泥流变参数的关系。     

关于非线性浅水波理论中的孤立波解

本文在[1]的基础上,详尽地得到了Boussinesq方程和KdV方程的孤立波解,并对波高和波形进行了细致的分析。为了更好地比较,本文还给出了高阶摄动的孤立波解。     

GENERATION OF NONLINEAR INTERNAL WAVES ON CONTINENTAL SHELF

1 .　ＩＮＴＲＯＤＵＣＴＩＯＮＩｎｔｅｒｎａｌｔｉｄａｌｉｎｔｅｒａｃｔｉｏｎｗｉｔｈｂｏｔｔｏｍｆｅａｔｕｒｅｓａｐｐｅａｒｓｔｏｂｅｔｈｅｄｏｍｉｎａｎｔｍｅｃｈａｎｉｓｍｆｏｒｇｅｎｅｒａ ｔｉｏｎｏｆｔｈｅｃｏｈｅｒｅｎｔｏｃｅａｎｉｃｉｎｔｅｒｎａｌｗａｖｅｓｔｈａｔａｒｅｏｂｓｅｒｖａｂｌｅｗｉｔｈＳＡＲ ,ｃｌｏｓｅｒｔｏｓｈｏｒｅ ,ｒｉｖｅｒｉｎｅｏｒｇｌａｃｉａｌｉｎｔｒｕｓｉｏｎａｎｄｃｏｎｔｉｎｅｎｔａｌｂｒｅａｋｐｒｏｖｉｄｅｓｅｃ ｏｎｄａｒｙｇｅｎｅｒａｔｉｎｇｍｅｃｈａ…