The making of modern champagne: how and why the taste for and the taste of champagne changed in nineteenth century Britain

ABSTRACT

Between 1800 and 1900, the taste of and for champagne in Britain changed entirely. From a sweet, and often, still wine it became both universally sparkling and extremely dry. Its usage also changed; drunk on its own or with sweet desserts in 1800, an accompaniment to savoury dishes and roast meats by 1900. How and why did these changes occur? Letters exchanged between the champagne houses and their London agents document changing styles of production whilst the changing nature of British taste can be tracked from the British press, from the many contemporary wine books and the records of the dominant distributive firm of W. & A. Gilbey. Using the Social Practice Theory of Shove and Pantzar and building on Leibenstein’s ground-breaking 1950 article on “snob” and “bandwagon” effects this article suggests a framework for understanding taste changes in British society.