The effect of phosphate detergent bans on consumer clothing expenditures

Metropolitan sales data from the 1977 Census of Retail Trade were analysed to test whether phosphate detergent bans increased consumer expenditure on clothing: positive effects were found for men's clothing and domestic fabrics (sheets and towels). In areas with medium water hardness the average annual cost in 1977 equalled $11·08 per household. For 1984, the equivalent cost was $14·17 per household. These results are consistent with laboratory studies that show decreased detergency associated with non-phosphate detergents and increased fabric wear associated with carbonate-built detergents, the principle substitute for phosphate detergents. The bans impose the largest cost on hard water areas. In both ban and non-ban areas in 1977 higher laundering costs were associated with higher water hardness. Analysis of 1972 data indicated that water hardness did not affect clothing expenditures significantly when detergents contained large amounts of phosphates.     

Detergent residues in textiles

The purpose of this study was to determine concentrations of detergent residues in textiles washed with three types of detergents. One detergent contained phosphate. In the other two (concentrated or ecological detergents) phosphate had been replaced by zeolite, which contains silicates. The textiles were washed using two programmes for coloured materials (at 60°C). The programmes differed with regard to volume of rinse water and number of rinsings. Detergent residues in textiles were determined chemically. Zeolite particles were determined electron microscopically. The results showed that most of the detergent residues remaining in textile strips were anionic tensides. They increased in proportion to the quantity of detergent used for washing. The least residues were left by concentrated detergents. Anionic tensides are suspected of causing skin irritation, probably allergy in atopic persons. Zeolite particles may irritate skin mechanically or cause through irritation respiratory distress. Washing programmes using less rinse water than other programmes increased detergent residues by 30%. It is concluded that there is a positive linear relationship between concentration of detergent and residues in textiles, and a negative linear relationship between water volume and residues in textiles after laundering. This could be of considerable importance from a health point of view and should be evaluated before any detergent is marketed. A methodology combining different standardized methods for analysing detergent residues in textiles was developed in this study.     

Bacterial survival on fabrics laundered in cold water

The effect of detergent formulation and fabric type on bacterial survival after home laundering in cold water was investigated. Three fabrics, 65/35 polyester/cotton shirting, 100% cotton sheeting, and 100% cotton terry cloth, were inoculated with Staphylococcus aureus, laundered in cold 60 ± 5°F (16 ± 3°C) water and machine dried. Eight phosphorus-based powders and non-phosphorus detergents in both powder and liquid form were used. A control with no detergent was used. Percent reduction in bacteria after machine washing and after machine drying were determined. Of the eight detergents studied, only two effectively removed 100% of the bacteria from the cotton terry cloth after washing. These were sodium carbonate and aluminosilicate-based powders, one of which contained sodium perborate, the other included enzymes. All of the detergents used removed > 97% of bacteria from the polyester/cotton shirting and cotton sheeting fabrics. No significant cross contamination occurred with any fabric. A greater percent reduction of bacteria was obtained with the terry cloth samples after washing and tumble drying than after washing alone. The implications of the study are important for consumers who are using colder water in the laundering process. This study found that bacteria were removed more easily from the two plain weave fabrics than the looped terry cloth fabric. The effectiveness of tumble drying after cold water laundering to reduce bacteria in the terry cloth towelling was an important finding.     

Comparative study of phosphate and non-phosphate detergents

A comparison of three different detergents was made by evaluating their properties of soil removal, soil redeposition and calcium carbonate deposition. The detergents included a phosphate granular detergent, a non-phosphate, carbonate built granular detergent and an unbuilt liquid detergent. The local water conditions were moderately hard and clay type soils were used. Detergency was evaluated on the basis of both visual and instrumental colour changes. In effecting soil removal, clay stained fabrics laundered with the phosphate detergent retained only a small amount of soil, while fabrics laundered with the two non-phosphate detergents showed heavier staining. In preventing soil redeposition, the phosphate detergent produced almost no visible redeposition; the unbuilt and carbonate built detergents ranked correspondingly lower. In assessing calcium carbonate deposition, the phosphate and unbuilt detergents showed little or no change, while the carbonate detergent continued to build up deposits with laundering. In summary, the phosphate detergent ranked highest in overall performance, with correspondingly lesser performance from the unbuilt and carbonate detergents.     

An investigation into some aspects of the efficiency of low-temperature laundering

The purpose of this research was to investigate the efficiency of laundering at low and recommended water temperatures using a heavy-duty biological detergent and a low-temperature detergent. The effectiveness of the process was measured in terms of the degree of stain/soil removal from laundered garments, and in the removal and transfer of bacteria from infected test pieces. The results indicate that with both detergents a reduction in washing efficiency occurs as the temperature of laundering is decreased, except when the difference between the recommended and low water temperature is small. Evidence was also obtained that shows that reducing wash temperatures decreases the degree of disinfection and increases the cross-infection of articles washed in the same load.     

Changing laundry habits in Norway

Maintenance is often the most energy‐demanding stage during clothes' life cycle. Therefore, a shift towards more sustainable washing habits has great potential to reduce the consumption of energy, water and detergent. This paper discusses the change in laundering practices during the past 10 years in Norway and suggests strategies to help consumers change their laundry habits to more sustainable ones. Quantitative information of consumers' experiences, habits and opinions concerning clothing maintenance was collected through three surveys in Norway in 2002, 2010 and 2011. The 2010 study was supplemented with qualitative in‐depth interviews of a strategic sample of households. The average washing temperature has decreased slightly during the studied time periods. Some products' washing frequencies remained the same, whereas other products such as jeans were used a few more days before washing. The cotton programme is the most used washing programme, but short programmes are gaining popularity. The laundry sorting processes vary greatly and are influenced by several factors such as washing temperature, colours, fibre type and use area. For some consumers, the use of several different sorting categories made it more difficult to collect a sufficient amount of clothing to fill the machine. They were also afraid that overfilling the machine would result in clothes that were not clean enough or had detergent residues. Detergent dosing practices are far from optimal. In 2010, although the majority of respondents only used eye measure and did not know the water hardness of their area, they still tried to vary detergent dosage based on the amount of laundry and the level of soiling. Different design for sustainable behaviour strategies could be used within detergent dosage systems, care labelling, machine programme selection (such as suggesting lower temperature and eco‐programme), machine filling grade indicators, storage systems for slightly used clothing and textile material choice.     

Clean laundry with pure conscience—A study on laundry practices among Finnish consumers

The previous study concerning laundry practices in Finland was published 16 years ago. Since that time, many pro‐environmental debates have been going on and sustainable actions have been implemented in many areas of individual lives and households. The purpose of this study is to investigate the textile laundering practices of Finnish consumers and their attitudes toward clothing care procedures. This study discusses how laundry habits could be developed into a more sustainable direction. The data for this research were gathered through an online enquiry that consisted of structured multiple‐choice questions. The data were obtained from 1,841 persons of whom 97.5% were women (n = 1,795). The data were analyzed by statistical means using the SPSS program. The data show that, despite media attention and debate about textile care procedures, there still are factors in laundering that burden the environment. From a sustainability point of view, some improvements exist when comparing to the situation 16 years ago, but washing machines still are seldom filled to their full capacity and consumers, being unaware of water hardness, administer excessive amounts of detergent. The current life situations of the household members seem to be major factors influencing laundry habits and sustainable actions. Especially, young people and families with children would benefit from information and instructions on laundry practices. Topics could contain knowledge about water hardness and proper dosing of detergent, filling the washing machine, washing temperatures, drying methods, and saving energy. Furthermore, general promotion of gender equality is important because household work and laundering is strikingly women‐performed work.     

Reducing laundering frequency to prolong the life of denim jeans

The use and disposal phase in a garment's life cycle is highly dependent on the choices made by the consumer. Maintenance procedures such as laundering and drying require energy and water use. Garment disposal increases waste in landfill sites, unless incinerated, which can take a toll on the environment through greenhouse gas emissions. Therefore, encouraging consumers to launder less frequently and finding ways to extend the useful life of clothing are two ways of increasing sustainability within the clothing industry. Denim jeans are one of the most popular items of clothing worldwide. Changing habits such as reducing the frequency with which a person washes their denim jeans could have a positive impact on the environment through less water and energy use. However, environmental knowledge about what is detrimental to the environment may not necessarily lead to pro‐environmental behaviour. In denim jeans fibre loss results in thinning and loss in colour due to use. Laundering in particular can degrade clothing due to the abrasive forces applied to the surface of wet fibres. Therefore, this study highlights the effect that frequent laundering can have on the degradation of jeans with the aim to provide additional motivation to encourage change in consumers’ laundering habits. Consumers wore jeans for the equivalent of 60 days and either washed their jeans after approximately 2 days of wear or after approximately every 20 days of wear. The findings confirmed that frequent laundering reduced mass, increased colour loss, and reduced tensile strength in the warp direction of the fabric. Although washing is a major contributor to the degradation of jeans, the process of wearing denim jeans also naturally degrades the denim as the thigh region of the jeans showed greater colour loss and reduction in tensile strength than the shin region, which is typically less prone to abrasion through wear. The findings from this study provide compelling evidence to encourage consumers to reconsider their laundering habits in terms of wash frequency as both a means to behave in a more environmentally sustainable way, and to preserve their favourite garments.     

THE EFFECT OF DETERGENT TYPE AND LAUNDERING TEMPERATURE ON THE SOIL REMOVAL AND SOIL REDEPOSITION PERFORMANCE OF COTTON AND P/C BLENDS WITH AND WITHOUT DURABLE PRESS FINISH

Three soiled test cloths of cotton and 65/35% Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish were subjected to twenty-five repeated launderings in Launder-Ometer to determine the effect of fabric type, wash temperature, and laundering interval on the soil removal and soil redeposition performance. The reflectance of the test fabrics as measured by a Hunter Lab D-40 reflectometer and the amount of soil removed and redeposited was computed in reflectance unit (RU) expressing the difference in reflectance of the test samples before and after washing. Soil removal and redeposition performances were significantly influenced by fabric type, detergent type, and laundering interval. Duncan's multiple range test indicated that Dacron/cotton blends with and without durable press finish retained and redeposited significantly less soil than cotton. Powder detergents cleaned test fabrics better than liquid detergents. Highly significant correlations between soil removal and redeposition RU and whiteness measurements were found. Therefore, both computations serve as reliable methods to evaluate soil removal and redeposition performance.     

Openness and Industrial Response in a Wal‐Mart World: A Case Study of Mexican Soaps,Detergents and Surfactant Producers

This paper uses a case study approach to explore the effects of NAFTA and GATT membership on innovation and trade in the Mexican soaps, detergents and surfactants (SDS) industry. Several basic findings emerge. First, the most fundamental effect of NAFTA and the GATT on the SDS industry was to help induce Wal‐Mart to enter Mexico. Once there, Walmex fundamentally changed the retail sector, forcing SDS firms to cut their profit margins and/or innovate. Those unable to respond to this new environment tended to lose market share and, in some cases, disappear altogether. Second, partly in response to Walmex, many Mexican producers logged impressive efficiency gains during the previous decade. These gains came both from labour‐shedding and from innovation, which in turn was fuelled by innovative input suppliers and by multinationals bringing new products and processes from their headquarters to Mexico. Finally, although Mexican detergent exports captured an increasing share of the US detergent market over the past decade, Mexican sales in the US were inhibited by a combination of excessive shipping delays at the border and artificially high input prices (due to Mexican protection of domestic caustic soda suppliers). They were also held back by the major re‐tooling costs that Mexican producers would have had to incur in order to establish brand recognition among non‐Latin consumers, and in order to comply with zero phosphate laws in many regions of the US.     

A survey of commercial laundry detergents - how effective are they?: Part III: powders,liquids and hard water

The effectiveness of 42 detergents, 11 non-phosphate containing powdered detergents, 12 phosphate containing powdered detergents, 11 unbuilt liquid detergents and eight built liquid detergents, of varying formulations, in cleaning a standard soiled fabric in water of varying hardness was evaluated. Powdered detergents were found to be significantly affected only at very high water hardness levels. There was no significant difference between washing in warm and hot water for the liquid detergents, except for a melaleucaoil based detergent which performed significantly better in hot water. Increasing water hardness had no significant effect on liquid detergents. Powdered detergents performed better than liquid detergents in cleaning the standard soiled fabric. While no one detergent was significantly better than the others, in general, washing with detergents that contained phosphates did give somewhat better results in warm water. Detergents that contained bleach as an additive did not result in whiter fabric.     

The effects of water hardness level on washing quality using commercial laundry detergents

The water hardnesses were determined for 10 samples of water. A wide variation of water hardnesses were found ranging from very soft to very hard. The effectiveness of six commercial laundry detergents of different formulations were evaluated. The detergent containing a non-ionic surfactant with a phosphate builder was found to give the best whiteness results, regardless of water hardness. Because of the possible environmental problems associated with the use of phosphates, consumers may wish to select the next most effective detergent formulation, which varied between water samples.     

A survey of commercial laundry detergents — how effective are they? Part II: liquids

The effectiveness of 11 unbuilt liquid detergents and eight built liquid detergents, of varying formulations, in cleaning a standard soiled fabric in soft water (5 ppm) were evaluated. It was found that in soft water there were no significant differences between washing in warm or hot water with either type of detergent, except for a melaleuca oil based detergent which was significantly better in hot water. However, although not significant, in general, washing with unbuilt liquid detergents did give somewhat better results in both warm and hot water.     

Market strategy for promoting green consumption: Consumer preference and policy implications for laundry detergent

Green consumption is a very common phrase in our daily lives, yet product characteristics that mainly contribute to the diffusion of green products are largely unknown. Based on microeconomic theory, we conduct a conjoint survey of consumer preferences for a ubiquitous green product—laundry detergent. We analyze the correlation between consumers' demographic variables and attributes of laundry detergents through a hierarchical Bayesian mixed logit model. We find that consumer preferences for attributes display significant heterogeneity. Age and income significantly influence the marginal preferences for attributes. An examination of consumer willingness to pay and of the relative importance of each attribute reveals that price and base material are the most important attributes. Green attributes, such as skin irritation potential and biodegradability, tend to be less important. This study also examines preference heterogeneity based on previous purchase experience. To promote green consumption, we emphasize the need for policies that reduce the value‐action gap.     

运用非线性思维打造"动漫不断"服装新品牌

面对国内服装企业的困境,笔者运用非线性思维得到启示,找到了一种解决办法,打造动漫不断服装新品牌.市场份额较大以及盈利较多的服装企业发展一般脱离不了两条路:一走大零售路线;另外一种就是走多品牌路线.也有公司两种方式兼用.国内服装企业的发展希望也可遵循这两条路,在企业品牌的发展中最大的威胁就是新定位的品牌形象塑造,能否吸引并扩大其目标消费群,以及能否增加其组货的能力,均是其面对的关键问题.     

Book Reviews

Today both Denmark and Sweden are successful fashion exporters due to the re-export of clothing designed in Scandinavia and produced in low-wage countries, while domestic clothing manufacturing has become almost non-existent over the past 20 years. This article compares the strategies of Danish and Swedish trade associations in clothing manufacturing and discusses whether or not the associations encouraged the abandonment of local manufacturing and adoption of global value chains. The analysis is carried out on the basis of interest group theory as developed by Mancur Olson and others, and the findings confirm that interest group influence can entail long-term negative effects, but also that variations in institutional settings are decisive.     

Environmental value chain management of laundry detergents in the use phase

Environmental value chain management is concerned with the environmental aspects of products and services along the whole value chain, from raw material and energy acquisition to waste management. The use phase in the value chain remains an understudied subject, despite considerable consumption‐related environmental impacts. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the use phase of laundry detergents in households. Our empirical data consist of interviews in the laundry rooms of 299 Finnish households. Consumers’ environmental awareness, use of dosage measuring devices and actual doses of laundry detergents are studied in the empirical part of the study. The results show that consumers do not perceive households as significant polluters, the measuring devices they use are diverse and the number of ‘heavy users’ is high in all detergent brands. It is concluded that in the consumption of laundry detergents, consumers do not perceive environmental issues as specific value criteria in relation to the use of laundry detergents. Manufacturers, marketers and other actors in the value chain of laundry detergents could contribute to alleviating the harmful environmental impacts of the use phase by more effective consumer education and better product design. For consumers, it might be beneficial to adopt eco‐efficiency thinking in their daily consumption.     

HOME LAUNDERING PART II. A LABORATORY EVALUATION OF THE WASHING PERFORMANCE OF FOUR DETERGENT PRODUCTS AT 40°C

A detailed comparison of the washing performance of four detergent products is discussed. The results of experiments using stained tea and terry towels and fabrics having standard stains, clearly indicate that the performance of liquid home laundering formulations commercially available in the U.K. and France does not compare favourably with the results obtained from perborate-containing powder products.     

Magic mirror in my hand … How trade mirror statistics can help us detect illegal financial flows

Misreporting tricks of different sorts applied to the transfer of goods between different countries are typically exploited by criminals worldwide for money laundering ends. The main international anti‐money laundering organisations started paying attention to this phenomenon, dubbed “trade‐based money laundering” (TBML), a long time ago, but the failure to develop appropriate analytical tools has reportedly dogged preventive actions. Nonetheless, literature has widely advocated the possibility that the analysis of inconsistencies in mirrored bilateral trade data could provide some help. By building on previous contributions in the field, this work sets up a model factoring in the main structural determinants of discrepancies between mirrored data concerning Italy's 2010 to 2013 external trade at a highly detailed (6‐digit) level of goods classification for each partner country. Point estimates of freight costs are used to net each observation of the corresponding cif/fob discrepancy. The regression estimates are then deployed in order to compute TBML risk indicators at a country/4‐digit product level. Based on the indicators, rankings of countries and product lines can be compiled, which may be used for a risk‐driven search of potential illegal commercial transactions.     

A survey of commercial laundry detergents – how effective are they? Part I: powders

The effectiveness of 11 non-phosphate containing powdered detergents and 12 phosphate containing powdered detergents, of varying formulations, in cleaning a standard soiled fabric in soft water (5 ppm) were evaluated. It was found that in soft water there were no differences between washing with either phosphate or non-phosphate detergent. In general, washing with detergents which contained phosphates did give somewhat better results in warm water. Detergents that contained bleach as an additive did not result in a whiter fabric.